This was my second Christmas in Rome. It’s a good place to visit this time of the year as there is plenty to do (including on Christmas Day itself) and the weather is very mild.
The main attractions are closed on Christmas day, but in the city centre there is plenty to do. It was a sunny day so we went for a picnic at Villa Borghese where plenty of families and tourists were enjoying a nice day out.
Attractions off the beaten track:
I know Rome well, so I prefer to avoid the crowds and check out some new sights.
Galleria Sciarra: a beautifully decorated building that not many tourists know about. A nice place to escape the crowds in central Rome.
Centrale Montemartini: This museum in an old powerhouse has an impressive collection of sculptures in a modern space. Tickets for €11.
I visited Palazzo Quirinale, which was hosting an exhibition about the volcanic eruptions of Pompeii and Santorini. It is a beautiful space and a nice place to check out for something different. Tickets €15 (or €8 at lunchtime during the week).
I always have a long list of food places to visit when I’m in Rome.
Seu Pizza Illuminati: this place has been on my list for a couple of years, but it was definitely worth the wait. They serve a mix of traditional and unusual pizzas, as well as a good selection of starters and deserts. Highly recommended. Dinner for two including drinks, dessert and tip for €50. Booking essential.
Necci: Pigneto is an up-and-coming neighbourhood, famous for its cool cafés and shops. When we visited most things were closed for the holidays, but the popular Necci was open, so we stopped there for coffee. Two coffees and a cake for €8.80.
La Forchetta: a local restaurant in Prati serving a good selection of traditional Italian food. Dinner for two including drinks, dessert and tip for €52.
Guttilla: a gelato place serving a delicious selection of flavours (a cup for €2.20).
Cresci: a nice local bar with a good selection of tapas and plenty of other options. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for €30.
Bulgaria was one of the few European countries still left on our list, so we decided to check it out. We spent a few very hot days exploring beautiful Plovdiv and Sofia.
The Old Town is picturesque. The cobblestone streets and traditional architecture are the perfect setting for plenty of cafés, shops and street art. You can explore the Roman ruins and traditional houses and cool down with a glass of homemade lemonade.
Veggic: a vegan restaurant and café serving great variety of salads, warm dishes and desert. We even came back again the next day! Dinner for two including drinks and desert for 36 lev.
Central Perk: a popular Friends-themed café where you can cool down with a drink alfresco. Drinks and snacks for two including tip for 25 lev.
Afreddo: a popular ice cream shop with plenty of flavours and clearly labelled vegan options. Two scoops for 3 lev.
Stay: we stayed at Photo House, a traditional Bulgarian restaurant with ample rooms and great location. We paid 176 lev for two nights.
Go: there aren’t many flights to Plovdiv, so the best option is to fly to Sofia, take the metro to the Central Station then get a bus to Plovdiv. The trip takes about 2h20 and tickets cost 14 lev. Buses leave every hour or so and times are available here. From Plovdiv to Sofia, buses depart from the bus station located by the central train station throughout the afternoon. Tickets for 9.50 lev can be bought here or at the Karats kiosk by the train station.
We only had one afternoon in Sofia, but we covered plenty of ground. We spent a few hours exploring the city centre (which is easy to cover on foot).
We visited the Central Market, the impressive cathedral St Alexander Nevsky and the busy Boulevard Vitosha, where locals enjoyed the good weather in cool cafés. Tsar Ivan Shishman Street is full of nice shops and bars, so we spent some time wandering around.
Restaurant Kring: a self-service restaurant with a great selection of mostly vegan dishes. 100g for 1 lev.
Sun Moon: a veggie restaurant and bakery with plenty of delicious options. Lunch for two including drinks and tip for 28 lev.
Stay: we stayed at Hotel Lion Sofia, which was centrally located close to the bus station.
Transportation: Sofia is easily covered on foot, but the metro is easy to navigate and covers many of the main areas. Tickets for 1.40 lev.
I went to Rome for work, but had plenty of time to eat all the best food!
Testaccio and Ostiense:
Testaccio is my favourite neighbourhood in Rome, so I spent a good amount of time eating locally:
Casa Manco: A popular pizza stall in Testaccio Market, serving delicious and unusual combinations of pizza by the slice. Three generous portions for 10€.
La Fraschetta di Mastro Giorgio: A beautiful local restaurant in Testaccio serving a great selection of cheeses and delicious pasta dishes. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 45€.
Pasticceria Andreotti: A local cafe and bakery in Ostiense serving an immense variety of pastries – I had the sfogliatella which was perfect. Coffee and pastry for 2€.
Da Remo: a lively local pizzeria in Testaccio, great for people-watching. The pizza dough is perfect. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 26€.
Gelateria la Romana: we joined the large queue of this gelato place in Ostiense and were not disappointed! Great gelato and a good variety of flavours. A medium cup for 3.50€.
Around central Rome:
We also spend a good amount of time exploring other areas. Here’s where we ate:
Machiavelli Club: This hidden gem was a lucky find and a highlight of the trip. The seasonal menu includes plenty of veggie options, and the food was amazing. Dinner for two including drinks, desert and tip for 55€.
Osteria dei Cappellari: A Roman restaurant that was just the escape from the rain that we needed. The cacio e pepe was delicious, and the pistachio semifreddo was even better. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 50€.
Luciano: a modern Italian restaurant without many tourists. The menu is short but the food is delicious. A light dinner for two for 40€ including drinks and tip.
Il Focolare: a local restaurant in a quiet area of Trastevere where local families enjoy the weekend lunch. Lunch for two including a great pinsa (a type of Roman pizza) for 28€ including drinks and tip.
Villa Doria Pamphili:
To enjoy the sunny day, we visited this huge park with a beautiful villa and plenty of greenery. A good option to enjoy a sunny day off the beaten track!
Wroclaw is a small but beautiful city in Poland. The old town centre is picturesque, and you can spend a few hours wandering around and spotting the hundreds of bronze gnome statues scattered all over the town.
There are plenty of things to do, including many cool restaurants and bars, so it’s a good option for a long weekend.
To the north of the old town there are a few islands in the river Oder where you can visit local churches and museums or walk by the scenic promenade.
Szczytnicki Park is a large park with some famous local attractions. It is a bit far from the city centre but the walk there is interesting.
Central Market: a large market with a good selection of fruit and veg and other local produce.
Transport: it is easy to walk everywhere on foot, but the city is covered by a good network of trams which are very convenient. You can buy tickets on board with a debit or credit card. Tickets for 3.40zl.
As ever, we also checked out many vegan places:
Vega: a vegan restaurant at the heart of Market Square serving a great selection of Polish dishes. The pierogi were great! Lunch for two including drinks for 47zl.
Mihiderka: a place with several locations across Poland serving delicious burgers and many other vegan dishes. Lunch for two including drinks and tip for 68zl.
Krowarzywa: a cool vegan burger place serving lots of delicious combos. Lunch for two including drinks for 70zl.
Ahimsa: a Middle Eastern and Asian vegan restaurant with a good varied selection. Dinner for two for 68zl.
4Hops: a bike-themed craft beer bar with a large selection of beers on tap. A pint for 12-17zl.
We were visiting Copenhagen and decided to take a little trip to Malmö as the two cities are very close to each other. To get there, you cross the Oresund Bridge from The Bridge fame.
We walked around the old town centre and visited Malmö Castle. We then stopped at the Modern Art Museum (free entry), which had some nice displays on, before heading back to Copenhagen.
Malmö is a beautiful city and a good place for a day trip.
Getting there: trains leave Copenhagen Central Station every 20 minutes. The trip takes about 40 minutes and tickets cost 90Kr. each way. The passport check is done on the train halfway through the journey.
The first time we visited Copenhagen was in the winter and we didn’t have a chance to enjoy the city properly. This time we came back on spring and had a very different experience!
We were lucky with the weather so we spent a lot of the time walking around the many gardens and parks and visiting the main sights like Kastellet and the garden at Rosenborg Castle.
We spent time wandering around the city and taking in the beautiful architecture. There were plenty of good options for vegan restaurants so we checked out quite a few!
Simple Raw: a cool place by a main square serving a wide selection of yummy vegan food. We tried the smorrebrod. Lunch for two including drinks for 370Kr.
Plads’n: a vegan pizzeria in a laid-back area. Delicious food and cocktails. Dinner for two including drinks for 318Kr.
Souls: a cool place serving generous portions and great vegan food. Brunch for two for 324Kr.
Plant Power Food: a vegan restaurant in Norrebro serving delicious smorrebrod and green salads. Dinner for two for 260Kr.
Veggie Heroes: an Indian buffet serving a wide selection of delicious curries. Dinner for two for 298Kr.
DOP: a traditional hotdog stand offering vegan options. Hotdogs for 44Kr.
Tivoli Food Hall: this place is right next to Tivoli Gardens, so you can get a good view of the famous theme park without having to pay the entrance fee. There are plenty of options for food and drink, including vegan and veggie alternatives.
Norrebro Bryghus is a microbrewery in a cool building serving a great selection of beers on tap. A float of beers for 100Kr.