europe

OLYMPICS FEVER UNDER THE EIFFEL TOWER: In Paris for the greatest show on Earth

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I love the Olympics, and I’m lucky to have volunteered in 2012, when it conveniently came to London. So this was my second time in person at the Olympics, and Paris was the most incredible host city.

I had tickets for six different events, and all of them were great. I watched Rugby 7s and Athletics in the Stade de France, where locals sang “Les Champs-Élysées” at the top of their lungs, and Mondo Duplantis hardly broke a sweat qualifying for the pole vault finals. We joined the women’s Football quarterfinals where Team USA narrowly beat Japan.

Many of the sports were hosted amid Paris’ monuments. My favourite venue was La Concorde, where we saw Team GB get silver in the BMX freestyle, and caught highly competitive 3X3 basketball games. Around the venue you’d catch a glimpse of the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, and the Arc du Triomphe, while being surrounded by the famous fountains and obelisk.

And of course, we couldn’t miss the highly anticipated beach volleyball games under the Eiffel Tower. Every Olympics has its own magic, and Paris delivered the most beautiful games.

The idea of making the games part of the city (and the city part of the games) worked out perfectly for Paris. It was great walking around the city and spotting other venues and events along the way: we even caught a glimpse of the Race Walk on the way to the Beach Volleyball.

We got back to London on the same Eurostar as British rower and icon Helen Glover. We were only there for a week, but we enjoyed it so much. As the song goes “Il y a tout ce que vous voulez, aux Champs-Élysées”.

GELATO IN THE SUN AND WARM EVENINGS: A week in Cinque Terre and Rome

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We had been meaning to visit Cinque Terre for a long time, and we finally did it! We went at the beginning of October, when it was still very hot.

Cinque Terre is a popular tourist destination, famous for its picturesque views of colourful hilltop villages over the sea. We had time to explore the five towns at a leisurely pace over three days, but it is possible to do it in fewer. 

  • Riomaggiore: this beautiful village is very popular, with many large tourist groups. There are beautiful viewpoints and a nice beach where to cool off.
  • Manarola: a small village with one main street full of cafés and restaurants. There is a nice view at Chiesa di San Lorenzo as well as along the coast.
  • Corniglia: a very small village with plenty of cool cafés. Stop at Alberto for delicious gelato (although the basil flavour is overrated) or venture down many steps for a swim away from the crowds.
  • Vernazza: We got to Vernazza early and explored it when it was cool and empty. The ruins of the Doria Castle are a great viewpoint (entry 2 euro). It is possible to hike from Vernazza to Monterosso in about 1h30. The hike is not too difficult, although the steps at the start are hard work.
  • Monterosso: the largest of the five villages, it is split across two main areas, an old town and the promenade by the beach.

How to do it: Cinque Terre is a national park, and a ticket is required to visit. You can buy tickets just for hiking, or for hiking and train, which includes unlimited train journeys. Buy it online here to save time and avoid long queues. 

Stay: there are plenty of hotels in each of the villages. We stayed in La Spezia which is a good base for exploring. 

Portofino 

From Cinque Terre, it is easy to take a day trip to Portofino. We took the train from La Spezia to S. Margherita Ligure, then walked along the coast (about 1h30) to reach Portofino. The walk is very scenic, and there are plenty of beaches along the way.

Portofino is very beautiful, although it is clearly a playground for the wealthy, with many yachts in the port and international fashion stores around the town. Make sure to stop for gelato at Gelateria Gepi which has many delicious flavours.

We took the bus back to S. Margherita Ligure, which takes about 20 minutes.

Rome

As always, I spent some time visiting my favourite places.

This tour of the Colosseum at night was a great way of seeing it without the crowds. The group is small and you have a good amount of time to see the main highlights. 

I mostly went to places I know and like, but I also discovered a couple of vegan places close to where I was staying:

  • Romeow Cat Bistro: A nice vegan cafe where a few cats live. Breakfast for 15 euros. 
  • 100% Bio: A great cafe serving a delicious selection of vegan dishes with a view of the Caius Sestius pyramid. 

Go: It takes about four hours to go from La Spezia to Rome. Tickets can be booked in advance here.

OLD TOWNS AND STREET ART: A week in cool Lithuania

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When we visited Vilnius for the first time, we knew we wanted to come back. This time we stopped at Kaunas as well, Lithuania’s second city.

Both cities are beautiful and great for exploring. Vegans are well-catered for in both vegan and non-vegan places, and the food is consistently delicious. 

Kaunas

Kaunas is a small but beautiful city, with lots to explore, and friendly locals who are happy to help tourists. Amazing street art is scattered all over town, and local tourist maps point to their exact locations.

Laisveis is a wide boulevard with many bars, restaurants, and cafés. Join the queue at Spurgine to try a traditional doughnut.

Nearby is the Old Town, which leads to Kaunas Castle. Set in a park, it’s a popular weekend destination. You can also see the confluence of rivers Nemuno and Neries, a nice activity for a sunny day.

Favourite places:

Vilnius 

We spent time exploring the Old Town and visited Gediminas Tower for views over the city.

See and do:

The new MO modern art museum had a great exhibition marking the 700th anniversary of Vilnius, with pieces by local artists.

Uzupis is a bohemian neighbourhood which declared its independence a couple of decades ago. A nice place for a walk in the afternoon. 

Halle Market is a traditional market with stalls offering both local produce and ready-made food. A delicious fresh smoothie costs only 2.50 euros.

The Open Gallery has many amazing street art pieces in an industrial area.

Food and Drink:

  • RoseHip Vegan Bistro: a great vegan place with plenty of delicious dishes, including the famous Lithuanian cold beetroot soup. They also have another unit, RoseHip Vegan kebabs, with plenty of other great options
  • Vegafe: a cool veggie restaurant with many vegan options, including Lithuanian dishes
  • Vieta: a small and popular vegan cafe in the Old Town
  • Casa la Familia: a veggie pizzeria with plenty of vegan options
  • Snekutis: a fun and popular bar with a large selection of beers on tap
  • Alaus Biblioteka (Beer Library): a cool bar with a great selection of local and international beers
  • There are lots of nice cafes around. I visited Italala, Backstage, Crustum, Brew, and Caffeine, all of which were great.

Go:

We stayed at the comfortable Grotthuss Hotel, which is ideally located in Vilnius Old Town. 

The train from Kaunas to Vilnius is quick and frequent. Tickets can be booked online through LTG about one month in advance. The trip takes about 1h30.

THERMAL BATHS AND MIDNIGHT SUN: Summer in Reyjavik

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I loved Reykjavik the first time I visited, and coming back in the summer was another great opportunity to explore. I’m already thinking of going back!

City Centre

Reykjavik has a small but vibrant city centre, with plenty of restaurants, cafes and shops to explore. Spend some time walking around Laugavegur (I ended up buying a coat at Icewear) or stopping at the local sights.

  • Hallgrimskirkja: This church that can be spotted across Reykjavik is a great viewpoint. Take the lift to the bell tower on a sunny day for the best views of the city centre and its colourful architecture.
  • Harpa: The famous Opera house is an attraction in itself, an impressive feature of the Reykjavik coast. Nearby is the Sun Voyager, a sculpture of a Viking ship overlooking the sea.

Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach

A bit off the city centre, this beach is popular with locals, with three heated areas for swimming, including a hot pool where you can keep warm even in the winter. Entry is free in the summer, and there are lockers to rent for a small fee. Nearby is Perlan, a museum set in within a beautiful local park.

Food and drink

  • Mama Reykjavik: A vegan restaurant in a central location with a varied selection. The famous cheesecake is delicious.
  • Gardurinn: A friendly place with a homely feel serving generous portions of a small and tasty daily menu.
  • Vegan World Peace: An Asian restaurant with a big selection of tasty dishes.
  • Chickpea: A veggie cafe serving generous portions of falafels and other sandwiches.
  • Skuli: A cool bar with an impressive selection of local and imported beers.

How to do it

We booked flights, accommodation and excursions through Icelandair, as it is simple to organise a trip through their website. It is very easy to travel around Iceland, as different travel agencies all coordinate tours with local hotels.

There are different options to choose from, but all offer similar options. Reykjavik Excursions is one of the main local providers.

We stayed at Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura (slightly off the city centre, but still within walking distance). The breakfast was generous and delicious, and the spa was worth a visit (great price for about £18).

WHALE-WATCHING AND THERMAL BATHS: Exploring Iceland in the summer

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I had been to Iceland before. Then, it was a winter trip to see the northern lights. It was a memorable holiday, and I knew I wanted to return for a summer adventure, when milder weather makes it easier to explore the island.

Whale-Watching

I’ve always wanted to go whale-watching, and a milestone birthday celebration in Iceland was the perfect opportunity. It is an excellent place for whale watching in the summer, when the chances of spotting different species are very high.

We saw humpback and minke whales, as well as dolphins – all surrounded by playful puffins and the atmospheric landscape of the coast off Reyjkavik.

After a couple of hours of spotting these beautiful animals, the boat returned to the harbour and we decided to warm up in the cafe below deck. As we sat down and watched seagulls bobbing in the sea, a minke whale swam by a couple of times, mostly unnoticed by others around us, and we marvelled at this little private show.

Whales of Iceland experience

Our whale-watching trip also included tickets to the Whales of Iceland, a museum with life-size models of whales. It is a good attraction to go to right after seeing the animals in real life, but a short visit is sufficient.

The exhibition is located inside a warehouse in an area full of independent shops and restaurants, and a stop at the local chocolate factory Omnom is a must. It is a popular stop where you can buy a huge variety of chocolate bars and try their delicious ice cream.

Golden Circle and the Secret Lagoon

Not far from Reyjkavik, the Golden Circle is a popular region to visit, with many iconic highlights from Iceland.

Our tour started at Þingvellir National Park, which is where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet. We then visited Strokkur Geyser, located in an area full of thermal activity, where hot water and steam spouts from the ground at regular intervals.

The next step was Gullfoss, a huge waterfall with amazing views.

The tour ended at the Secret Lagoon, a thermal pool that is perfect for a relaxing break at the end of a day of exploring. It is smaller and less busy than the famous Blue Lagoon, but you benefit from fewer tourists and a more authentic experience.

How to do it

It is very easy to book different tours in Iceland, as all the main companies work with hotels to coordinate everything. We booked both of our tours with Icelandair when planning our trip. The whale-watching trip was done with Special Tours and we visited the Golden Circle with Reykjavik Sightseeing.

SUNNY DAYS AND DELICIOUS FOOD: Spring in Rome

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This was my first European break since the start of the pandemic! As I do when I’m in Rome, I spent a lot of time trying new food and visiting some old favourites.

Garbatella, Ostiense and Testaccio

My favourite area of Rome is around Testaccio and Ostiense. This time I also spent some time exploring Garbatella, another local neighbourhood. There you will find the Mercatino Usato, a second-hand shop where you can spend hours among all sorts of antiques.

I visited some of my favourite places in the area: Andreotti for coffee and pastries, Mercato Testaccio for the amazing pizza of Casa Manco, and Fraschetta di Mastro Giorgio for a delicious dinner.

And I added a couple of new places to my list of favourites:

  • Marigold is the best place for an upscale brunch, with countless options of delicious treats (the tebirke is highly recommended)
  • Pizzeria Ostiense not only serves amazing pizza (and the best potato croquette), but it’s also an ideal place for people-watching.

Not far from Testaccio is the beautiful Giardino degli Aranci, a garden with amazing views over the city. It is next to the Buco di Roma, where you get an impressive view of St Peter’s Basilica through a keyhole.

Trastevere

Trastevere is a popular area for dining, and although I try to stay away from the places with the long queues of tourists, there are many good stops around.

  • Seu Pizza Illuminati is one of my favourites, with a long menu of unusual and consistently delicious flavours. You will need to book in advance.
  • Ivo a Trastevere was a lucky find, perfect for a break after a long walk.
  • Otaleg is a small and popular gelato shop that has a great selection of ice cream flavours.

On Sundays, the Porta Portese market takes over the streets, with countless stalls selling all sorts of mostly Chinese goods. It’s worth a visit, but you might not want to stay very long.

I also spend a lot of time walking around new and old places, as Rome is a great city to explore on foot. Around Campo di Fiori we had gelato at Marave, which has a great selection of flavours, including a signature one which is worth trying.

Terrazza des Etoiles is a hotel bar and restaurant that is also open to the public. Grab a drink with an amazing view over St Peter’s basilica, and enjoy a moment of calm away from the crowds.

ROOFTOP SWIMMING AND VEGAN CAFES: three days in relaxing Bath

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We decided to go to Bath for a few days to enjoy the end of the British summer. I hadn’t been to Bath in many years, so it was a good time for a visit.

The picturesque city centre is a UNESCO Heritage Site, and it’s nice to just walk around and explore, stopping at Bath Abbey and the Crescent, going for a walk by the river for views of Pulteney Bridge or having coffee at one of the many cafés.

Bath is famous for its thermal water. Thermae Bath Spa is a popular spa with two large thermal pools, including a rooftop one with views over the historical centre. Entry, on a first come first served basis, costs £37 on weekdays for two hours.

FOOD:

  • Oak: a great place for a special meal, serving mostly vegan dishes. Dinner for two including drinks, dessert and tip for £65
  • Green Rocket: a vegan café just a few minutes away from the station, with a great selection of delicious food. Lunch for two including drinks and tip for £30
  • Cascara: a small vegan café with a nice selection of sandwiches. Lunch for two for £22
  • Indian Temptation: a vegetarian Indian restaurant overlooking Bath Abbey. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for £40
  • Thaikhun: a Thai place with plenty of vegan options. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for £36
  • Fudge Kitchen: a small shop with a good selection of fudge flavours, always including a vegan option. We had the chocolate one which was delicious. A generous slab for £5.50

HOW TO DO IT:

Bath is only 1h30 from London, and trains leave Paddington station every hour or so. Advance return tickets for £40. The city centre is easily covered on foot.

2020 TRAVELLING: The year in review

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At the end of every year, I write a reflection about my travels. This was a very different year and so is this review.

January and February started as planned, with short trips to Paris and Amsterdam, where we didn’t do much other than enjoy all our favourite local vegan spots.

By March, the world was a different place. I had booked trips to Thailand and Japan, and I had many other ambitions plans. Instead, I stayed home and watched the occasional plane fly by, wondering about the lives of the people who were still going places.

This year reminded me that most of all, I love cities. When people started taking tentative holidays to European resorts, I didn’t. My favourite metropolises were never free of restrictions. I stayed in, but still connected with many of the places I’ve visited.

Travel changes us. All the places I visited are now part of me too, and I’ve used my time at home this year to bring those places closer to me.

I cooked Japanese food and drank green tea. I read Elif Shafak’s “10 Minutes 38 Seconds in this Strange World”, which made me want to go back to Istanbul. When I saw a Chinook helicopter flying by, helping transport coronavirus patients, I thought of Afghanistan, where they served a very different purpose. I remembered a warm evening by the bay in Beirut when I heard about the explosion that destroyed the beautiful city. I bought panettone as I couldn’t spend another Christmas in Rome.

Travelling is an identity, and it is also a huge privilege. This being a normal year, by now I would have come home from many months of travelling. Instead I’m happy I get to plan future travels for another time.

In the words of Maya Angelou:

You may not control all the events that happen to you, but you can decide not to be reduced by them.

I don’t know where 2021 will take me, but I hope at some point, I’ll be off on a plane again – I can’t wait!

VEGAN BURGERS AND DUTCH MASTERPIECES: A rainy weekend in Amsterdam

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We decided to go to Amsterdam for an easy weekend away by taking the Eurostar. We know the city well, so we mostly spent our time trying some of the many vegan places around.

  • De Hallen: This is a nice place to visit on a cold day. There are local shops, a food court, cinema and a street market. It’s a popular place to visit for local and tourists.
  • Rijksmuseum: to escape the rain we visited the Rijksmuseum, which has a great collection. The Gallery of Honour hosts many major Dutch masterpieces. Tickets for €20.
  • Tony’s Chocolonely: this popular chocolate brand has a superstore in the city centre where you can try all the different flavours, including limited editions.
  • Vegan Junk Food Bar: this popular place had been on my list for a while, and it did not disappoint. They have a great selection of burgers, loaded fries and more, and everything we had was great. We even came back the next day. A small feast for two for €46.
  • Juice Brothers: a good place for breakfast with a delicious selection of smoothies and bowls. An açai bowl for €9.50.
  • Go: To go from London to Amsterdam by Eurostar it takes 4h40 and it’s an easy and comfortable option. The way back requires a change in Brussels, but direct trains will be available from late April.

VEGAN FOOD AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY: A winter break in Paris

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We visited Paris for a relaxing weekend. We’ve been to Paris many times before, so we mostly spent time walking around and checking out vegan restaurants.

  • Hank Burger: this is an old favourite so we wanted to visit it again. They have a nice selection of vegan burgers and they are all delicious. Two burgers, sides and drinks for €27.
  • Hank Pizza: from the same people of Hank Burger, this vegan pizza place offers a selection of delicious pizza by the slice. A meal of two slices, salad and a drink for €13.
  • La Palanche d’Aulac: a vegan place with a good selection of Vietnamese starters and mains. Friendly service and generous portions. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for €38.
  • Cloud Cakes: this vegan café has a popular brunch on the weekends. A plentiful selection for two to share for €26. The lattes are delicious.

Musee d’Orsay: I hadn’t been to Musee d’Orsay in many years. It’s a good option for a cold day, and when we visited it wasn’t too busy. Buy tickets online to skip the queue for €15.40.

Stay: we stayed at Exe Panorama which is conveniently located very close to Gare du Nord. A good option if you’re taking the Eurostar.