rome

GELATO IN THE SUN AND WARM EVENINGS: A week in Cinque Terre and Rome

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We had been meaning to visit Cinque Terre for a long time, and we finally did it! We went at the beginning of October, when it was still very hot.

Cinque Terre is a popular tourist destination, famous for its picturesque views of colourful hilltop villages over the sea. We had time to explore the five towns at a leisurely pace over three days, but it is possible to do it in fewer. 

  • Riomaggiore: this beautiful village is very popular, with many large tourist groups. There are beautiful viewpoints and a nice beach where to cool off.
  • Manarola: a small village with one main street full of cafés and restaurants. There is a nice view at Chiesa di San Lorenzo as well as along the coast.
  • Corniglia: a very small village with plenty of cool cafés. Stop at Alberto for delicious gelato (although the basil flavour is overrated) or venture down many steps for a swim away from the crowds.
  • Vernazza: We got to Vernazza early and explored it when it was cool and empty. The ruins of the Doria Castle are a great viewpoint (entry 2 euro). It is possible to hike from Vernazza to Monterosso in about 1h30. The hike is not too difficult, although the steps at the start are hard work.
  • Monterosso: the largest of the five villages, it is split across two main areas, an old town and the promenade by the beach.

How to do it: Cinque Terre is a national park, and a ticket is required to visit. You can buy tickets just for hiking, or for hiking and train, which includes unlimited train journeys. Buy it online here to save time and avoid long queues. 

Stay: there are plenty of hotels in each of the villages. We stayed in La Spezia which is a good base for exploring. 

Portofino 

From Cinque Terre, it is easy to take a day trip to Portofino. We took the train from La Spezia to S. Margherita Ligure, then walked along the coast (about 1h30) to reach Portofino. The walk is very scenic, and there are plenty of beaches along the way.

Portofino is very beautiful, although it is clearly a playground for the wealthy, with many yachts in the port and international fashion stores around the town. Make sure to stop for gelato at Gelateria Gepi which has many delicious flavours.

We took the bus back to S. Margherita Ligure, which takes about 20 minutes.

Rome

As always, I spent some time visiting my favourite places.

This tour of the Colosseum at night was a great way of seeing it without the crowds. The group is small and you have a good amount of time to see the main highlights. 

I mostly went to places I know and like, but I also discovered a couple of vegan places close to where I was staying:

  • Romeow Cat Bistro: A nice vegan cafe where a few cats live. Breakfast for 15 euros. 
  • 100% Bio: A great cafe serving a delicious selection of vegan dishes with a view of the Caius Sestius pyramid. 

Go: It takes about four hours to go from La Spezia to Rome. Tickets can be booked in advance here.

SUNNY DAYS AND DELICIOUS FOOD: Spring in Rome

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This was my first European break since the start of the pandemic! As I do when I’m in Rome, I spent a lot of time trying new food and visiting some old favourites.

Garbatella, Ostiense and Testaccio

My favourite area of Rome is around Testaccio and Ostiense. This time I also spent some time exploring Garbatella, another local neighbourhood. There you will find the Mercatino Usato, a second-hand shop where you can spend hours among all sorts of antiques.

I visited some of my favourite places in the area: Andreotti for coffee and pastries, Mercato Testaccio for the amazing pizza of Casa Manco, and Fraschetta di Mastro Giorgio for a delicious dinner.

And I added a couple of new places to my list of favourites:

  • Marigold is the best place for an upscale brunch, with countless options of delicious treats (the tebirke is highly recommended)
  • Pizzeria Ostiense not only serves amazing pizza (and the best potato croquette), but it’s also an ideal place for people-watching.

Not far from Testaccio is the beautiful Giardino degli Aranci, a garden with amazing views over the city. It is next to the Buco di Roma, where you get an impressive view of St Peter’s Basilica through a keyhole.

Trastevere

Trastevere is a popular area for dining, and although I try to stay away from the places with the long queues of tourists, there are many good stops around.

  • Seu Pizza Illuminati is one of my favourites, with a long menu of unusual and consistently delicious flavours. You will need to book in advance.
  • Ivo a Trastevere was a lucky find, perfect for a break after a long walk.
  • Otaleg is a small and popular gelato shop that has a great selection of ice cream flavours.

On Sundays, the Porta Portese market takes over the streets, with countless stalls selling all sorts of mostly Chinese goods. It’s worth a visit, but you might not want to stay very long.

I also spend a lot of time walking around new and old places, as Rome is a great city to explore on foot. Around Campo di Fiori we had gelato at Marave, which has a great selection of flavours, including a signature one which is worth trying.

Terrazza des Etoiles is a hotel bar and restaurant that is also open to the public. Grab a drink with an amazing view over St Peter’s basilica, and enjoy a moment of calm away from the crowds.

SUNNY DAYS AND OLD FAVOURITES: Christmas in Rome

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This was my second Christmas in Rome. It’s a good place to visit this time of the year as there is plenty to do (including on Christmas Day itself) and the weather is very mild.

The main attractions are closed on Christmas day, but in the city centre there is plenty to do. It was a sunny day so we went for a picnic at Villa Borghese where plenty of families and tourists were enjoying a nice day out.

Attractions off the beaten track:

I know Rome well, so I prefer to avoid the crowds and check out some new sights.

  • Galleria Sciarra: a beautifully decorated building that not many tourists know about. A nice place to escape the crowds in central Rome.
  • Centrale Montemartini: This museum in an old powerhouse has an impressive collection of sculptures in a modern space. Tickets for €11.
  • I visited Palazzo Quirinale, which was hosting an exhibition about the volcanic eruptions of Pompeii and Santorini. It is a beautiful space and a nice place to check out for something different. Tickets €15 (or €8 at lunchtime during the week).

Food:

I always have a long list of food places to visit when I’m in Rome.

  • I went to explore some of my favourite places in Testaccio and Ostiense. We went to Pasticceria Andreotti for coffee, stopped for pizza at Casa Manco in Testaccio Market and finished with desert at Pasticceria Barberini.
  • Seu Pizza Illuminati: this place has been on my list for a couple of years, but it was definitely worth the wait. They serve a mix of traditional and unusual pizzas, as well as a good selection of starters and deserts. Highly recommended. Dinner for two including drinks, dessert and tip for €50. Booking essential.
  • Necci: Pigneto is an up-and-coming neighbourhood, famous for its cool cafés and shops. When we visited most things were closed for the holidays, but the popular Necci was open, so we stopped there for coffee. Two coffees and a cake for €8.80.
  • La Forchetta: a local restaurant in Prati serving a good selection of traditional Italian food. Dinner for two including drinks, dessert and tip for €52.
  • Guttilla: a gelato place serving a delicious selection of flavours (a cup for €2.20).
  • Cresci: a nice local bar with a good selection of tapas and plenty of other options. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for €30.

PIZZA AND PASTA IN ROME: Eating around Testaccio, Ostiense and more

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I went to Rome for work, but had plenty of time to eat all the best food!

Testaccio and Ostiense:

Testaccio is my favourite neighbourhood in Rome, so I spent a good amount of time eating locally:

  • Casa Manco: A popular pizza stall in Testaccio Market, serving delicious and unusual combinations of pizza by the slice. Three generous portions for 10€.
  • La Fraschetta di Mastro Giorgio: A beautiful local restaurant in Testaccio serving a great selection of cheeses and delicious pasta dishes. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 45€.
  • Pasticceria Andreotti: A local cafe and bakery in Ostiense serving an immense variety of pastries – I had the sfogliatella which was perfect. Coffee and pastry for 2€.
  • Da Remo: a lively local pizzeria in Testaccio, great for people-watching. The pizza dough is perfect. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 26€.
  • Gelateria la Romana: we joined the large queue of this gelato place in Ostiense and were not disappointed! Great gelato and a good variety of flavours. A medium cup for 3.50€.

Around central Rome:

We also spend a good amount of time exploring other areas. Here’s where we ate:

  • Machiavelli Club: This hidden gem was a lucky find and a highlight of the trip. The seasonal menu includes plenty of veggie options, and the food was amazing. Dinner for two including drinks, desert and tip for 55€.
  • Osteria dei Cappellari: A Roman restaurant that was just the escape from the rain that we needed. The cacio e pepe was delicious, and the pistachio semifreddo was even better. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 50€.
  • Luciano: a modern Italian restaurant without many tourists. The menu is short but the food is delicious. A light dinner for two for 40€ including drinks and tip.
  • Il Focolare: a local restaurant in a quiet area of Trastevere where local families enjoy the weekend lunch. Lunch for two including a great pinsa (a type of Roman pizza) for 28€ including drinks and tip.

Villa Doria Pamphili:

To enjoy the sunny day, we visited this huge park with a beautiful villa and plenty of greenery. A good option to enjoy a sunny day off the beaten track!