city break

THE 5-MINUTE TRIP PLANNER: A WEEKEND IN EDINBURGH

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I go to Edinburgh on occasion to visit friends. It’s easy to get there and it’s always fun.

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HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: there are lots of flights from London, but you can also take the train, which takes a bit less than 5 hours. Book in advance as prices can get quite high.
  • Stay: I always stay with friends, but Hostelworld has many options available. Accommodation is not particularly cheap in Edinburgh, but it’s worth paying more to stay in the city centre.
  • Do: On a nice day, hike up Arthur’s seat for a great view of the city. Recover with a nice beer in one of the many great pubs around the city centre.
  • Shop: Ness has lots of nice bags and jackets, with a modern Scottish feel. I always find it a bit on the expensive side, but they often have sales on.
    Easy!
The 5-minute trip planner: Planning a short trip in no time.

A WEEK IN THE OLD YUGOSLAVIA: BELGRADE, SERBIA

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We got on a 6am bus from Sarajevo’s main station. Buses depart daily and tickets cost around 50KM (£20) per person, but there are organised tours or you can take the plane. We had no hope that the journey would take 7h10 as we were told, but this time we were surprisingly on time!

The bus goes through the snowy hills of Bosnia and onto the Serbian countryside. The border crossing came and went without much hassle.

We arrived in Belgrade in the early afternoon. This was our final destination. Again the station looked a bit rough and the street names in Cyrillic made for a difficult start, but we found our way around.

THE CITY CENTRE:

belgrade2_for webThe area between Cara Dušana-Frankuska and the pedestrianised Knez Mihailova is the central area of the city. There are many bars and cafes (plus countless bakeries and pizzerias) around this area.

The pedestrianised road leads to the local fortress. On a nice day (and this was one of them), the views of the city from the fortress can be quite nice. This is also where the Danube crosses the city.

This was the last stop in a long journey, and after much sightseeing I was finding Belgrade a bit gritty and unappealing. But then we hit the bars.

  • We stumbled upon Pastis Bistro, a lovely French place which was quite popular. On the menu cocktails, coffee, great local wine and popcorn (from an old-fashioned popcorn machine).
  • Next we stopped at Cafe La Libertad, where Che Guevara is the hero of choice. This place was low-key and friendly.
  • We ended our first night in the city at Big Pizza, a fast-food pizzeria where we got a massive pizza for £4.
  • On our last day of this journey we continued to visit the local bars. We stopped for coffee and beer at the Eleven Bar & Cafe .
  • Then we moved onto Skadarska street which is lined with nice restaurants on both sides. This little street is very different from the rest of Belgrade, with a much more Western Europe feel. It is known as the Montmartre of Belgrade.
  • We stopped at the Travelling Actor for a drink in the sun and tried the local spirit – quince brandy. Service in Belgrade is friendly and food and drinks are extremely cheap. English is spoken in most places, although not as widely as in more touristic cities.
  • We then reached Dali Bar, which was (obviously) a Salvador Dali-inspired cocktail bar with many options of drinks on the menu. A cocktail costs about £3.
  • Moving on we ventured onto Walter Sarajevski Cevap, a nice eatery where we had beer and chips (their speciality is the cevap, the local alternative to a burger).
  • We then stopped at Jimmy Woo, a trendy cocktail bar where the waiter helpfully warned us that all beers were small (we were clearly not the first people to come from England to stop there). I tried Lav, a Serbian beer.
  • And then everything changed. We find this little hideaway in Višnjićeva street, which instantly became our favourite place. Unhelpfully, this is a hole in the wall without a sign, but it’s only a few doors up from Soho bar.
  • We went for dinner at Osteria Gallo Nero, an authentic Italian place recommended to us at the hostel. Food was delicious and the service friendly. We ended the night back at our favourite place for a few more beers.

Belgrade doesn’t have much to offer in terms of landmarks, but the cafes and bars are great and we had a great time.

 HOW TO DO IT:

  • Getting there: Belgrade is normally at the start or at the end of the journey for people visiting the former Yugoslavia. We travelled with Jet Airways, which provided a good service.
  • Stay: We stayed at Indigo Hostel, where hosts Ana and Voja were extremely helpful. The place was nice and the room spacious. It’s located at the top of Skavarska street, very close to the restaurants and bars.
  • Money: Belgrade is very cheap. You can eat well at a restaurant for £7, and a beer costs less than £2.
  • Food: Eating in Eastern Europe is not easy for vegetarians, but if you stick to what you know it’s not that bad. The best option in to research some veggie dishes in advance and to stick to these. Pizza is ubiquitous, and many places offer a vegetarian pizza option.

THE END:

This was the end of our Eastern European adventure. We started off in Croatia, spent a day in Montenegro, then travelled through Bosnia stopping in Mostar and Sarajevo and finally ending up in Belgrade. We learned a lot from the history of the places we visited and loved the cheap prices – I recommend it!

A WEEK IN THE OLD YUGOSLAVIA: DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

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A few months ago I wrote about the trip we were planning to Eastern Europe. Our plans worked perfectly, and our trip started with three days in Dubrovnik, on the Dalmatian coast.

Dubrovnik was one of our favourite places in this trip: beautiful, scenic, and relaxing. It has an Italian feel to it, and it has become quite popular with the tourists in recent years.

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THE OLD TOWN

The Old Town is where most attractions are, a scenic little city centre enclosed by fortress walls and by the Adriatic sea, where you can lose yourself eating ice cream and drinking local white wine.

The city walls are a nice attraction: you can walk the length of the walls (about 2km), getting views from the Old Town, the coast, and the mountains. Breathtaking!

LOKRUM

The island of Lokrum is a national reserve which can be reached in 15 minutes by boat from Dubrovnik. Boats leave the small port in the Old Town every hour (more frequently during peak season) and a return ticket costs about £10.

There are many attractions in the island, including beaches and a botanic garden, but the main highlight is Fort Royal, located at a steep hill, which gives amazing views of Dubrovnik.There are lots of peacocks roaming around, and we were lucky to spot a beautiful hoopoe flying around.

A great little day trip!

FOOD

It’s easy to eat in Croatia as the food there is quite European.

The local wine is widely available and very good, I especially enjoyed sampling white wine as it was quite warm. There are lots of ice cream stands and you shouldn’t miss them, it’s always delicious.

The only vegetarian restaurant, Nishta, is at the heart of the Old Town and provides good food and a friendly service.

Mea Culpa is a nice pizzeria, and it was quite busy on a night where everywhere else was empty. We were sharing a pizza and it came helpfully cut in half. A pizza and two drinks cost around £18 including tip. The fact that ‘Stray Heart‘ was playing when we were there may or may not have influenced my opinion of the place.

HOW TO DO IT:

  • When to go: The high season (summer) is warmer, but we were told that Dubrovnik gets too packed in July-August, when most tourists and massive cruises arrive at the same time. We went mid-April, which was perfect: not too crowded but busy enough, with mild temperatures, but not beach weather yet.
  • Getting there: There are lots of flight from London, but most companies only go to Croatia during the high season (May to September). We went with Norwegian, as they had daily flights departing in April.
  • Stay: We stayed at Stella Jadre apartments, where we had our own kitchen and terrace. Jadre is a friendly hostess, keen to give directions and help out. The place is located just outside the Old Town, which is ideal. There are many other options available at Hostelworld.
  • Transport: There are plenty of public buses, ferries and taxis around, and it’s easy to get to places. Transfer from the airport in a shuttle bus costs 35 kunar (about £4), with scenic views all the way. Regional buses from the bus terminal are cheap and accessible, and a good way to see more of the region.
  • Money matters: £1 equals about 9 kunars. Croatia is cheaper than England, but not massively. Konsum is a local supermarket (omnipresent in the countries of the region) with good prices for those self-catering.

A WEEKEND IN BERLIN

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Berlin was great – as always.

This was my third time in the city and I still haven’t seen enough. It gives me a reason to come back though.

Berlin is a big city with lots of different neighbourhoods, so there’s lots to explore. We stayed in Alexanderplatz, which is very central.

DO:

Many of the main sights are close together along the river Spree.

Start at Potsdamer Platz then make your way to the Brandenburg Gate, where tourists gather to take pictures. Right nearby is the Holocaust Memorial, with uneven columns that create a sense of unease.

Next, walk to the Reichstag. The building has a transparent dome by British Architect Norman Foster. It’s free to get in but you need to book in advance.

From there walk along the river to reach Museum Island, then stop for a beer in one of the many restaurants by the river.

If you’re so inclined, get on the subway towards Checkpoint Charlie, completing the tour of the main attractions in the city.

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Another highlight is the East-Side Gallery, where large sections of the Berlin Wall have been decorated with colourful paintings.

After taking some pictures (non-optional), head north to Friedrichshain. There are many nice cafes around.

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We were there over the weekend, so on Sunday we learned it was time for brunch. We went to Prenzlauer Berg – there were lots of lovely places around, you can choose anywhere and it will be just perfect!

Nearby is Mauerpark, with a massive market selling all sorts of things. It was packed, and really nice.

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Getting there: lots of flights are available from London, and it only takes 2 hours to get there.
  • Getting around: you can do a lot on foot, but the subway is the easiest way to get places. There are lots of options for tickets, but day passes are probably the most useful for short trips.
  • Stay: Location is key, so choose a neighbourhood before deciding on the accommodation. We stayed at Schoenhouse Aparments, in a very large flat that was just perfect, highly recommended!
  • Drink: There are lots of restaurants, bars and cafes in Berlin, so you’re never out of choice. Mitte, Friedrichsain, Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg are all good neighbourhoods for drinks or a good night out. German beers are great so that is never a problem in Berlin!
  • Eat: German food is nor particularly veggie-friendly, but veganism is quite popular at the moment, so we had no problems. We had perfect samosas at Mama India and a great Vietnamese dinner at Chen Che.

AMAZING PLACES: MARRAKESH

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I went to Marrakesh for the first time a couple of years ago and it immediately became one of my favourite places. I’ve now been three times, and will go back this October.

Walking through Jemaa el-Fnaa for the first time is a unique experience: the main square of Marrakesh is always full of life, there are lots of cafes and shops, and it’s the best place to watch the sunset behind Koutobia mosque.

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Photo by Antiquote (www.flickr.com/photos/antiquote/)

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: Flights from England are widely available, but booking in advance is essential to guarantee good prices.
  • Stay: Staying in a Riad is the best way to enjoy Marrakesh. There are lots of them available at Hostelworld, and the prices are great.
  • Eat: Food in Morocco is amazing and very cheap. Chegrouni in Jemaa el-Fna is one of the best in terms of location, but our favourite for food is the Earth Cafe, with an amazing vegetarian menu.
  • Shop: no trip to Marrakesh is complete if you’re not losing yourself in the souks. There you can buy anything from olives to rugs, all at a very good price (provided you like bargaining, which is not optional).

I can’t wait to go back!

TRAVEL WISHLIST: AMSTERDAM

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Pretty much everyone I know has been to Amsterdam, but somehow I missed the boat.
But with the Rijksmuseum finally reopening after ten years, I decided not to wait anymore, so this August I’m finally going for a long weekend in the city!

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: There are lots of options for flights, but it only takes 4h40 on the Eurostar, which is more convenient.
  • Stay: Accommodation is not particularly cheap, but there are options for all tastes.
  • Do: for a cultural break, follow the Rijksmuseum with a visit to Anne Frank’s house and the Van Gogh museum.
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The Rijksmuseum (photo from Wikipedia)

TRIP PLANNING: A WEEK IN EASTERN EUROPE

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This trip has been in the cards for a while, but now we’re finally booking flights and accommodation.

THE ITINERARY:

There were lots of options, but we’ve decided to do the following:

  • Flying from London to Dubrovnik (Croatia): there we’ll spend a couple of days;
  • From Dubrovnik we’ll take a day trip to Montenegro, ideally to visit places like Kotor and Budva. Apparently tours can be easily booked when you’re in Croatia, but Amico Tours seems to be a good option if booking in advance.
  • From there we’re getting on a bus to Mostar (Bosnia). Until recently I didn’t even know this place existed, but now I’m obsessed!
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The bridge in Mostar (Photo from Wikipedia)

  • From there we’re getting on a train to Sarajevo, which I’m really looking forward to.
  • Finally, another bus journey and we end our trip in Belgrade (Serbia), where we’re spending two days before coming back to London.

HOW TO DO IT:

Flights:
Many companies fly from London to Dubrovnik, including Norwegian, Easyjet and Monarch.
From Belgrade to London there are less options, Jat Air being the most frequent.Accommodation:
There are lots of options at very affordable prices. We booked everything from Hostelworld.Getting around:
This is the trickiest past of planning this trip as buses are not available for booking online, but timetables can be found in websites such as  www.libertasdubrovnik.com and www.centrolines.ba.
Forums suggest that this shouldn’t be a problem.

How long to go for:
We’re going for nine days in total, which fits well around work.

When to go:
We’re going in April when it should be warm but not too hot. High season is in the summer but temperatures can be too high, especially if travelling by bus.

2013 TRAVELLING: THE YEAR IN REVIEW

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In 2013 we decided to visit one European per month. We did it! Here’s a short summary of how it went:

  • Our first trip was to Copenhagen in early February. The city was beautiful and not as expensive as we thought, but the weather definitely made it all a bit difficult.
  • Also in February, we went to Ravenna, Italy. There is not much to it, although the mosaics (on the UNESCO Heritage list) are pretty impressive. The main reason why we ended up there was for family though.
  • In March we spent St Patrick’s Day in Cork. It is a very nice and pretty town, but definitely not as mad as Dublin is supposed to be in March.
  • In April we visited friends in Edinburgh. We were very lucky with the weather so we got the chance to climb Arthur’s seat.
  • In May we went to Budapest. My friend Sophie is a local so we had a great time bar-hopping. The Szechenyi baths were great too.
  • In June we went to Brazil for the Confederations Cup (so technically not Europe). Football and riots.
  • In July we went to Stockholm and had a great time sampling super-expensive beer around Gamla Stan.
  • Then in August we went to Antwerp to see some hockey. There was a nice summer festival on.
  • In September we went to Paris and wandered around the beautiful boulevards. Ron Mueck had an amazing exhibition on at the Cartier Foundation, following the success of  his previous show there.
  • In October we went to Venice for the arts biennale. Somehow we still laugh every time we think about the poor tourist who fell straight into a canal!
  • In November we went to Iceland which was amazing! The highlights were the northern lights, but the whole summary of the trip is here.
  • In December we boarded a plane to Ljubljana not really knowing what to expect. We were pleasantly surprised!

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DECEMBER: 2 DAYS IN LJUBLJANA

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Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia, and we decided to go ‘because it’s there‘. We didn’t know much about it, so it was a very pleasant surprise to discover how nice it was!

You get the most amazing view of the Julian Alps from the plane:
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The city is small, and everything is within walking distance.
The city centre is very pretty, and in December there is a nice Christmas market which keeps the town busy despite the cold.

CHRISTMAS MARKET:

The Christmas Market is not a large as its counterparts in Germany, but it was still very nice. You get a glass of mulled wine for about €2, and the same for roasted chestnuts.The city is also nicely decorated with Christmas lights.

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LJUBLJANA CASTLE:

The castle has nice views of the city, which is the main reason to visit. It also has a ‘virtual tour’ which tells the story of the castle, and other activities.Entrance at €8, including funicular transfer.

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TIPS

  • Drinking: Union lager, a local beer, was okay but nothing exceptional.
  • Eating: Foculus Pizza is a nice pizzeria with lots of options, and the menu is helpfully split to show veggie options. Dinner for two with a drink costs around €25.
  • Nightlife: Tabor is an up-and-coming area, where you will find Metelkova Mesto, a squat with six clubs. The area is also full of nice graffiti.
  • Stay: We stayed at the nice Sax Hostel, which we found through Hostelworld. The hostess was very nice and helpful, and the accommodation was good and close to the city centre. There is also a Pub downstairs.
  • Money: The currency is the euro, which makes things easy. Prices are cheaper than London, but comparable to other European countries.
  • Taxis: are easily available, but booking in advance is a good option as you get significant discounts.
  • Airport transfer: buses to the city centre a few and far in between (once every one or two hours), so if you have the option the best thing would be to book a taxi in advance.
  • Language: English and Italian are widely spoken.
  • Weather: it’s very cold in the winter, so it’s probably a good idea to visit when it’s warmer (although summer can be too hot). This would also be the best time to visit other cities in Slovenia, such as Bled.
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THE 5-MINUTE TRIP PLANNER: 2 DAYS IN BATH

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  • Go: Take the train from Paddington at around 11am (get anytime return tickets from around £54).
  • Sleep: The Harington’s has rave reviews and at £87 per night on weekdays is a good choice – it’s right in the city centre, with nearby cafes and lots of amenities.
  • Do: Visiting the Roman Baths is a must, but for a relaxing break head to the Thermae Hot Spa. For £26 for two hours, you can indulge in a hot bath with amazing views of the town. With no advance booking, this is perfect for a last-minute getaway.

The 5-minute trip planner: Planning a short trip in no time.