A SUNNY WEEKEND IN SCANDINAVIA: Two days in Helsinki

Helsinki 01

We decided to take advantage of the bank holiday and go to Helsinki. We arrived quite late on the Friday, so we decided to stay at Glo, a hotel conveniently located inside the airport terminal.

In the morning we headed to the city centre. We visited the popular Market Square across the harbour. Nearby is the Design District, full of cool (but expensive) shops. There are a few Marimekko shops too, with its amazing prints and all sorts of objects (again too expensive).

We stopped at Pizzarium, a great place for a quick lunch – they had many options of veggie and vegan pizzas (lunch for two for 15€).

Helsinki 03

After stopping at our flat for a bit, we decided to go to Kallio for the evening as we had heard good things about it. We had a drink at Oiva, a karaoke bar; then we headed to Siltanen, a great place where all the cool kids hang out listening to DJs, drinking and eating Asian food.

Our final stop for the night was Pub 3 Linja, a local pub that was probably not used to receiving many tourists as we got a lot of local attention. This was by far the cheapest place we found, with beer for 4€.

On our second day in Helsinki we left our flat and walked south to Kaivopuisto park. It was a hot sunny day, so it was perfect for lounging about in the sunshine before heading to the airport.

Helsinki 02

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: We flew with Norwegian from Gatwick on a Friday after work. The trip takes 2h30 and tickets cost around £90 return.
  • Stay: We arrived quite late, so we decided to stay at airport hotel Glo. This was a great decision as the place is located within the airport terminal and it is very good. We paid £93 for two including breakfast. In Helsinki we stayed at an Airbnb flat which I definitely wouldn’t recommend. But there are lots of other Airbnb options for around £50 per night.
  • Food: Finnish food isn’t particularly veggie but most places had some options clearly labelled. Helsinki has lots of international restaurants, so it’s very easy to find good alternatives.
  • Drink: We found lots of places offering a wide range of local and craft beers. These were generally very nice, but prices can be a bit steep, with bottles costing around 6€.
  • Money: Helsinki is not as expensive as some other Scandinavian capitals, but it’s still more expensive than most European cities.
  • Transportation: Most places in Helsinki are within walking distance from the city centre. Alternatively, the metro is easy to navigate (tickets cost 2.70€) and there are also lots of trams available. The fast train from the airport to the Central Station takes 30 minutes and runs every 10 minutes throughout the day. Tickets cost 5.50€ and can be bought in ticket machines or aboard the train.

Helsinki 04

SIPPING APEROL SPRITZ IN THE SUN: A chilled weekend in Milan

Milan07

In my first time in Milan it rained the whole time, so it was great to be back when the weather was nice.

As I expect everyone does, our first stop was the Duomo and surrounding areas. The Duomo is very impressive, and on a sunny day it made for great photos. There are many options for tickets, but we chose the one which only gave access to the cathedral itself as it only cost 2€.

Milan01

Milan03

Milan02

We then visited the beautiful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, reaching the Teatro alla Scala right behind it. We had a quick gelato stop at Cioccolati Italiani, where service was confusing but the gelato was delicious.

Our next stop was the unique Sforzesco Castle and the beautiful Sempione Park behind it, where we sat in the sun watching buskers entertain the crowd.

Milan04

Milan05

We got on the metro to Navigli (Porta Genova metro stop), a nice area absolutely packed with cool bars and restaurants. All the bars offered aperitivi, a great deal in which you buy a drink (about 10€) a get lots of nibbles alongside it. We had Aperol Spritz (my favourite!) and many other delicious cocktails, then headed back to the hotel at midnight, when the area was still buzzing.

In the morning we headed to Brera, a bohemian neighbourhood not far from the city centre. Brera Palace hosts the famous Pinacoteca and it’s also a great place for a drink in the sun at one of the many cute cafes in the area. We had an Aperol Spritz or two before heading back to the airport.

Milan06

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: Flights from London take about 2h, so you can easily go after work on a Friday.
  • Stay: We Stayed at Zambala, a place with serviced apartments which was a good option. We paid 158€ for two people for two nights.
  • Transportation: Milan has a good network of metro and trams. You can buy a 48h travelcard for 8.25€. Taxis from the airport are expensive, but frequent buses to and from the Central station cost only 8€.
  • Do: Leonardo’s Last Supper is a big draw, so it’s imperative to book in advance as tickets sell out weeks before your visit.

Milan08

A WEEKEND IN CARDIFF: Rainy days and bar hopping

Wales02

We took advantage of the bank holiday and hopped on a train from London to Cardiff. Our flat was near Cardiff Bay, so after making ourselves at home, we decided to explore the area.

We started at the impressive Millenium Centre, a landmark building perfect for taking photos. Then we headed to the bay, an area with lots of cool bars and restaurants. If the weather is nice you can also take a quick boat trip for £3.

Wales01

In the evening we decided to try and find a restaurant in the centre for dinner, but this was a mistake a that area was way too rowdy in the evening.

On our second day we explored some more, stopping at the little shops in the many arcades in the city centre.

Wales06

Wales05

As the weather wasn’t great, we spent some time at Cardiff Castle (tickets for £12), a nice place to learn more about the history of the city. Bute Park is just behind the castle, and it looked quite nice too.

We had a late lunch at Bill’s, followed by a couple of nice cocktails at 10 Feet Tall, then headed back to the flat for a lazy night in.

Wales03

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Stay: We stayed in this nice flat, which was well located between the bay and the city centre.
  • When to go: The weather in Wales is not the best, so rain is always expected. We went in May and it was still quite cold.
  • Go: Trains from Paddington take a little over 2h. Book in advance as it can get quite expensive (we paid £74 return each).

Wales04

Wales07

BLUE SKIES AND TURQUOISE SEAS: A long weekend in Malta

malta05

Malta has been on our list for ages, but we always thought it was best to go with plenty of time to see everything. So an extended Easter break was the perfect occasion!

We arrived at Malta airport and went straight to Gozo: we took bus X1 from the airport to the ferry terminal (takes 1h15) and then the ferry. It was a nice sunny day, so we got lovely views along the way.

malta08

The ferry itself was quite impressive, with shops and bars inside (apparently this is not unusual but I have limited experience with ferries).

We dropped our bags at the hotel and went off exploring. Our hotel was right at the port at Mgarr, so we decided to walk to Victoria.

malta02

malta03

This was quite a long walk, and it being Easter Friday, everything was shut. We stopped at Xewkija to check out the Rotunda, an impressive church which can be seen all over the island. Right next door there was a little local bar where we stopped for a beer and chips (3.50€ for two beers and chips – unbelievable!).

We continued on to Victoria where we had dinner at Cafe Jubilee in the main square, then watched some of the Easter procession go by before getting on a bus back to the hotel.

malta01

We started our second day heading straight to Dwejra, where many of Gozo’s highlights are. We spent a couple of hours walking around and taking amazing photos of the Azure Window, Fungus Rock and the inland sea. You can also get great views from the Tower.

We had drinks at the Azure Window Restaurant while we waited for the bus back to Victoria.

malta04

malta06

malta09

malta10

malta11

malta13

malta15

In the afternoon we went to Xaghra, a town where the main attraction are the Ġgantija megalithic temples. There are some other sights around, but most of them aren’t worth the visit.

We got back to Victoria in time to explore the impressive Citadel, which has great views over the countryside. Our final stop of the day was Palazzo Antonin, where we had a hearty dinner before heading back to the hotel.

malta17

malta18

malta19

On our last day in Gozo we decided to get a boat to nearby Comino island (15€ return per person). The big draw there is the Blue Lagoon, a shallow pool in the bay with impossibly turquoise waters. It was a bit too cold for swimming, but with such an amazing view we had to jump in for a little bit.

We then walked towards Comino Tower, with awesome views over the deep blue sea and nearby caves. This tower served as Château d’If for the movie The Count of Monte Cristo.

Comino is quite small so you only need a few hours to explore. We hopped on a (very fast) boat back to Gozo where we got in just in time for lunch at Veranda, a nice place by the harbour with great food but slightly scatty service. Lunch for two including drinks for 32.60€.

malta20

malta22

malta23

malta25

malta26

malta27

malta31

malta32

It was a nice summer day, so we spent some time by the hotel pool even though the water was too cold for swimming.

In the evening we had dinner at Il Bancinu, a pizza place by the harbour which seemed to cater mostly to locals (dinner for two including drinks and tip for 18€). We then went to Monkey’s Fists for a nightcap (drinks for 2€!) – this was a lovely place that really should have had more customers than just the two of us!

malta07

Our last day in Malta was spent on the main island. We reached Valletta and explored the nice pedestrianised streets of the city centre. It was another bright sunny day, so we stopped for a perfect gelato at Amorino, where they serve ice cream in perfect petals of as many flavours as you want.

We stopped for lunch at Soul Food, a nice little restaurant with plenty of veggie options (lunch for two including drinks and tip for 37€).

malta33

malta34

We then took the ferry to Sliema, where we were staying for the night. We chilled in our nice hotel before going for dinner at the promenade. We chose Cafe Sicilia, an Italian place which was quite busy and it was a nice end for our trip!

malta16

HOW TO DO IT:

  • When to go: we went for the Easter break, which was off season. Days were warm but not too hot and evenings brought a nice breeze. It was a bit too cold to swim in the sea, but on the plus side everything was super cheap!
  • Transportation: you need to take a lot of buses to get around Malta, but the system is reliable and easy to navigate. A bus ticket costs 1.50€ for two hours, but there are also day passes which offer discounts.
  • Food: eating in Malta is not completely seamless. There is a strong Italian influence, but veggie dishes tend to always be the same. The local ravioli with Maltese cheese and tomato sauce was delicious and became my staple. Vegans struggle. Another thing to be aware of is that most restaurants close between 3 an 6, so we were turned down a few times as our holiday pace didn’t work with local timings.
  • Where to stay: everyone I know suggested we stayed in Gozo for most of our trip, so we did. We took advantage of the great prices and booked ourselves onto the Grand Hotel, an old-fashioned four-star hotel that has great views over the harbour (we paid only £32 per night including a great breakfast buffet). We spent one night in Sliema, which is not too far from Valletta – again we found a good deal and stayed at the Palace, a five-star hotel with an impressive rooftop swimming pool (we paid £56 for one night, room only). There are lots of options for accommodation, so the best thing is to choose which area to stay and go from there.
  • Day trips and excursions: We only took one trip, the ferry to Comino (15€ return), but there are lots of different cruises and excursions around the islands of Malta. Some include guide and food, and others are transportation only. These can be arranged at hotels and harbours quite easily, and tend to be very affordable.

malta30

malta29

malta24

malta21

A COLD WEEKEND WITH A SCENIC VIEW: 2 Days in Luxembourg

luxembourg 12

We left London on a cold winter evening after work – and reached Luxembourg only to discover it was even colder!

Despite the freezing rain, we still managed to cover a lot of ground.

Our first impression was that the city is very impressive, full of nice modern buildings and very clean. It is also a good place for shopping, and many of the main European brands have outlets there.

luxembourg 06

We were staying close to the Central Station, so in the morning we crossed the viaduct to reach the Haute Ville.

On the way we stopped at Notre Dame Cathedral, an impressive building with lots of intricate detail. As it’s usually the case in Luxembourg, it was impeccably kept and looked brand new.

luxembourg 02

We reached the city centre, and explored the streets around Place des Armes and Place Guillaume II.

To scape the cold, we had drink at the Tube, a London-themed pub where the only other customer was actor John Hannah.

We then decided to check out the National Museum of History and Art, which was free. The museum has a diverse collection which includes anything from ancient artifacts to modern art. The displays of Roman relics, including a massive mosaic were very impressive and definitely worth the visit.

luxembourg 03

luxembourg 05

We ventured outside for a walk around the Lower City, but it was a bit too cold and wet to properly enjoy it.

For lunch we stopped at Beet, which has the best veggie burgers, and it was a highlight of our trip.

After a few drinks at the popular Urban (an Irish pub). We stopped for dinner at Nirvana Cafe, an Indian buffet with great food and even better service (free slices of vegan cake to take away, yum!).

luxembourg 08

We were lucky that our second day in the city was dry, so we walked around the city walls to take some photos of the impressive views. The most famous highlight of Luxembourg is Casemates du Bock, a labirynth of tunnels which was unfortunately closed for the winter.

We decided to take a walking tour (13€ per person, from the Luxembourg Tourist Office, which also offers other tours). This was a two-hour walk around the centre which was okay, but (a) I actually thought I’d get hypothermia at one point and (b) it highlighted that you can see all the main sights by yourself without much commentary.

luxembourg 13

luxembourg 09

We went back to Urban to warm up and get some food before it was time to head back to the airport.

I didn’t really know what to expect from Luxembourg, but it was a good place to spend a quiet and chilled weekend.

luxembourg 11

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: Flights from London take only 50min, so it’s a great choice for a short break.
  • Stay: We stayed at the Park Inn (£75 per night) which was right next to the Central Station. This area is very seedy at night, but it’s got great transportation links.
  • Getting around: Luxembourg has excellent public transportation – buses from the airport cost only 2€, and it’s very easy to find your way around.
  • Wi-fi: All bars and restaurants offer their own wi-fi, but there’s also a free service everywhere, which is quite handy.

luxembourg 10

luxembourg 07

luxembourg 01

luxembourg 04

ALL IS QUIET IN OXFORD CIRCUS: Breakfast in Central London

I’ve lived in London for long enough to know that the area around Oxford Street-Piccadilly Circus-Trafalgar Square is best avoided if you’re not a tourist. But I was wrong!

InstagramCapture_d6fe3d90-937a-4ee5-bbef-3948fb9835d6[1]

I found myself at 9am on Oxford Street on a Wednesday – and it was great! It was a cold January morning, and the crowds were nowhere to be seen: so I wandered around for a while just taking it all in.

InstagramCapture_7b8d19cb-a861-4d92-aeb5-d62cb98773cf[1]

I noticed the impressive architecture around Piccadilly Circus; took photos of the statues in Trafalgar Square; looked at the cool store fronts in Carnaby Street. Then I hopped on the tube to get to the Tate Modern just as it was opening, when art students sit on the floor with their sketchbooks.

InstagramCapture_e9a9c067-9c60-42df-af21-169ec923d072[1]

Having my breakfast and looking at St Paul’s across the river, I felt so lucky to have had a moment of peace in this amazing city.

2015 TRAVELLING: The year in review

rome33

Another year, another fourteen trips!

  • In January we were pleasantly surprised by sunny days in Lisbon – perfect for sipping green wine.
  • In February we spent Valentine’s Day in beautiful Paris.
  • In March I took the most amazing photos in Rome – I can’t believe it took me over 10 years to go back!
  • In April we spent a few days in a lovely flat at the heart of Vienna – and had a quick stop in Bratislava.
  • I also visited my friend in Edinburgh and discovered a few new great places for a pint.
  • In May I battled the crowds to visit the amazing ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
  • Later in the month we went back to Venice for another amazing Biennale – and stayed in the best Airbnb ever!

brasov19.jpg

  • In June we discovered Lithuania is great for craft beers.
  • In July my friend got married in Toronto – and off we went for our Transatlantic adventure of the year!
  • Also in July we visited Warsaw and Krakow – Poland is so nice and so cool!
  • In August I went back to Berlin to get my annual fix of their amazing brunches.
  • In September we crossed Transylvania by train – from Romania to Hungary with many stops along the way!
  • In November we were greeted like kings in Turkey – from Pamukkale to Ephesus and Istanbul.
  • In December we had cheap tapas and wine with friends in Madrid.

What a wonderful year – I can’t wait to see what 2016 has to offer!

berlin02.jpg

RED WINE AND CHEAP TAPAS: A weekend in Madrid

madrid 01

We went to Madrid to meet up with a couple of friends who were travelling around Spain. We arrived on a Friday right after lunch and, after taking the metro to the city centre, we set off exploring.

Our first stop was 100 Montaditos, a tapas chain where each of the 100 varieties of little sandwiches costs just 1€.

madrid 10

We then made our way to Retiro, a beautiful park where crowds gather to watch the sunset over the lake. It is a massive place where you can spend a few hours wandering around and taking nice photos.

madrid 03

madrid 08

For dinner we went to trendy vegan place Vega, where the food was just amazing. You really need to book in advance though, because the place is small and gets quite busy. Dinner for two including drinks and tip cost 50€.

We ended our night at San Gines, a popular churros place where all you order is some hot chocolate and a massive plate of churros to dunk (6€). It was really nice, but portions are huge so it’s best to share.

madrid 05

We started our second day in the city by walking to Museo del Prado. They have an amazing collection, including Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights which was great. Tickets cost 14€.

After exploring the museum for a couple of hours we stopped for lunch at Piccolino della Farfalla which served nice homemade Italian food.

madrid 12

We then headed to the Royal Palace, wandering around the streets of the city centre along the way. Everywhere you go there are lots of nice cafes, bars and restaurants serving cheap tapas and good wine, and in the evenings they all get really lively and busy.

Near the Royal Palace is the Temple of Debod, an Egyptian temple which was rescued from flooding and rebuilt in Madrid. Admission is free.

madrid 14

After resting at the hotel for a bit, we had dinner at Taberna de Lucio, which is famous for its fried eggs with chips. It was nice, if not particularly veggie-friendly.

We finally stopped at Naturbier brewery for a nightcap before heading back to the hotel.

madrid 16

We started our last day in Madrid visiting Picasso’s Guernica at Reina Sofia museum. It’s a great place for seeing masterpieces by Dali, Miro and Picasso. Tickets cost 8€, but we got in free as there were national elections on.

Before heading to the airport we stopped at San Miguel market for lunch. This is a great and popular place for trying lots of local dishes. We had veggie paella (7€), a generous portion of mixed olives (3.5€) and wine (3€ for a glass) and then it was time to head back.

madrid 11

Madrid is the perfect place for a chilled city break!

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: We flew with Norwegian as they had the cheapest options, but there are plenty of other alternatives. Flights from London take about 2h.
  • Stay: We stayed at Room Mate Alicia because my friends were staying there. It was good and centrally located. A room cost £76 per night for two.
  • Transportation: Madrid has a good metro network. Tickets start from 1.5€, but you can also buy different types of passes. There is a 3€ surcharge to go to the airport (the journey there takes about 40 minutes from the city centre). Around the centre most places can be reached on foot.

madrid 13

madrid 15

madrid 04

madrid 06

madrid 02

madrid 07

madrid 09

GRAND MOSQUES AND ANCIENT PALACES: One day in Istanbul

istanbul 06

We knew one day wouldn’t be enough to see Istanbul properly, so we got up early to cover as much ground as possible.

Our first stop was Topikapi Palace (tickets cost 30TL per person). This is an impressive palace where you get a good understanding of the life of sultans. The Harem is amazing (tickets cost an extra 15TL), with room after room decorated with intricate patterns from floor to ceiling. You need a few hours to go through everything.

istanbul 24

This is also a great place to get views over the Bosphorus.

We then walked to Hagia Sophia, a monumental display of both Christian and Muslim faith. Tickets cost 30TL. Right across is the famous Blue Mosque. There are set times for tourists to visit, so we only managed to see it from the outside.

istanbul 09

In the afternoon we visited the Grand Bazaar. This is a great place to buy presents: there are lots of options for ceramic tiles, lamps, jewellery and much more.

istanbul 07

Prices were really cheap, and you can get discounts by bargaining a bit. This was a much more manageable experience than the souks in Marrakesh – most things had prices on them and shopkeepers were friendly but not pushy.

This was all we had time for in one day – I will definitely come back for more!

istanbul 01

Food:

Turkish food is great for vegetarians. There are lots of meze options (stuffed vine leaves, hummus, salads, etc) and many places offered some kind of vegetable stew as a main dish. The local pizza (pide) was really yummy.

In Istanbul there are lots of little cafes where you can choose a selection of small dishes from a buffet. These are a good and cheap alternative for lunch. Baklavas, ice cream and Turkish delights shops are everywhere, with impressive displays of delicious sweets.

istanbul 03

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: Turkish Airlines have the cheapest flights from London. The flight takes a little under 4h. There are two airports in Istanbul – we used Sabiha Gokcen which was on the Asian side of the city and a bit tricky to get to, so Ataturk airport would be a better alternative.
  • Stay: We stayed at Basileus Hotel in Sultanahmet. This was a good hotel but there are plenty of options around. Sultanahmet is definitely the best area to stay, as you are within walking distance from many local highlights. It’s also near tram and metro stops.

istanbul 08

istanbul 02

istanbul 04

istanbul 05