THE 5-MINUTE TRIP PLANNER: Lisbon

December 9, 2014November 23, 2014 / The practical explorer / 2 Comments

Portugal is mostly popular with the British because of its beaches, but Lisbon is a great place for a city break.

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There is a lot to see and do, from cultural attractions to a vibrant nightlife.

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And because of the mild weather, it’s a good place to visit for most of the year.

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HOW TO DO IT:

Go: Easyjet normally offers the best prices, and you can go after work on a Friday to make the most of the weekend.
Stay: Lisbon has good options for accommodation at better prices than most European capitals. My recommendation is Artbeat rooms, an artsy hostel where each room is dedicated to an artist. They have the best recommendations of places to go, and it’s centrally located.
Do: Visit the Monument to the Discoveries and follow it by Jeronimos Monastery – it’s a great overview of the age of exploration and Portuguese history. Then recharge with a cup of coffee and a couple of custard tarts at the place where they were first made.
Drink: Stop at one (or a few) of the many bars and restaurants around Chiado and Bairro Alto. There are always new places to go for a glass of local green wine!

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The 5-minute trip planner: Planning a short trip in no time.

TRAVELLING IN THE WINTER: Don’t wait for the weather to be good!

November 30, 2014November 30, 2014 / The practical explorer / Leave a comment

It’s very easy to find places to go in the summer. But who wants to wait this long to go somewhere? Here are a few ideas of places to visit this winter:

1. Go to a big city

The big European capitals have a lot to offer, so it’s easy to find something to do indoors. Berlin is a good option, as you can spend a lot of time in museums and cafes, but there are also good Christmas markets around.

2. Escape the cold

You don’t need to travel halfway across the globe to find somewhere warmer. Morocco and Egypt are quite warm during the winter, and can be reached within 3-4 hours.

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3. Discover somewhere new

Last December we went to Ljubljana just because we wanted to go somewhere – it was great! Very cold, but a great little trip.

There’s still time to go somewhere this winter!

THE 5-MINUTE TRIP PLANNER: A weekend in Paris

November 27, 2014November 23, 2014 / The practical explorer / Leave a comment

I love Paris! I’ve been many times and will go back again in February.

There are lots of things to see and do, and you can easily spend a month getting lost in the many different areas of the city.

But Paris is also perfect for a long weekend, as it’s so close to London.

HOW TO DO IT:

Go: Hop on the Eurostar after work and arrive right at the centre of Paris. The journey takes only a little over 2 hours, and if you book in advance it’s also the cheapest way to go.
Sleep: Staying in Paris can be really expensive, but if you do your research there are good budget options around. I’m staying at Le Rocroy, but there are lots of good options around Montmartre as well.
Do: Spend a whole day in the Louvre or catch the latest exhibition at the Grand Palais; get lost in Montmartre; go for a meal and drinks around le Marais; discover a little cafe around the corner… there’s really no way to get it wrong in Paris!

The 5-minute trip planner: Planning a short trip in no time.

THE ARTS BIENNALE IN VENICE

November 21, 2014November 13, 2014 / The practical explorer / Leave a comment

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Sometimes when you want something for a long time you forget that you can simply do it.

I always wanted to go to the arts Biennale in Venice. So last year I bought tickets and actually did it!

There are exhibits all over the city, but there are two main venues: Giardini (with individual pavilions for different countries) and Arsenale (one large pavilion with many exhibits).

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We bought a day ticket, but really you need at least one day for each venue.

There was so much to see, it was amazing! Art in all forms and media from all over the world in a very impressive set up. We liked it so much that we’re going again next year!

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HOW TO DO IT:

Go: There are lots of flights from London and the journey takes only a little over 2h, so this is a great option for a weekend away.
Tickets: You can buy tickets to the Biennale here. A day ticket costs 23.50€.
Stay: Venice is an expensive city, so book in advance to get good prices. We stayed at San Geremia, which was a good option at a good location.
Do: Apart from the Biennale, there’s lots to do in Venice. Explore the canals, buy Carnival masks and marvel at the Doge’s Palace. But also take some time to go around San Polo district, where you can see a more authentic side of Venice.

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Why not start planning your trip to somewhere you always wanted to visit?

A WEEKEND IN BRUGES: Beers and boat tours

November 3, 2014November 8, 2014 / The practical explorer / Leave a comment

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I’ve been to Belgium a few times, but this was my first time in Bruges. Everyone will tell you that this place is really beautiful – and it is!

Bruges has a very charming historical city centre, and is a good choice for a quieter weekend break.

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Spend some time wandering around the centre and stop at one of the many bistros for amazing Belgian beers – the local Brugse Zot is a bit expensive, but it’s worth a try!

If the weather is nice, take one of the many boat tours and see the main sights from a different perspective.

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HOW TO DO IT:

Go: There are many options of flights from London to Brussels, where you can get a train to Bruges. Alternatively, take the Eurostar to Brussels Midi and change to a local train. Both should take about 4h depending on the connections available.
Stay: We stayed a Martin’s which was perfectly located and had a convenient minibar for us to store our beers. We paid 90€ for a double room. There are other more affordable options around, but we were travelling with a 90 year-old and wanted something easy!
Do: Boat tours are a must in Bruges. There are many around the canals, and a 60-minute tour costs about 8€ per person.
Buy: Veritas is a great shop that I always look for when I’m in Belgium. They have really cool accessories, plus a great haberdashery section for the creative among us.

5 THINGS TO DO IN LONDON: Top tips from an insider

October 31, 2014November 8, 2014 / The practical explorer / 1 Comment

Although I’m always keen to hop on a plane and go somewhere new, I love showing London to my friends when they come to visit. Here are some of my recommendations:

1. Learn something in a museum:

In London most museums are free AND many also offer free tours and talks. How good is that? Spend an hour drawing something at the National Gallery or browse one of the V&A galleries with a guided tour.

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2. Take the bus:

The tube is usually the most practical way of getting places in London, but buses are less crowded and you get a nice view of the city. Plus everyone loves a double-decker!

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3. See some live music:

London has an amazing music scene and pretty much anything goes – listen to a free lunchtime concert, catch an open mic night at your local pub, or find your favourite band somewhere around town.

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4. Taste great Indian food:

British food may not be on the top of everyone’s list, but London has amazing restaurants (from every cuisine) and is a great place to eat Indian food. There are lots of options in Balham, and I like the Clapham Tandoori and the vegetarian Sagar.

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5. Have a drink:

Pubs are a massive part of British culture, and London has LOADS to choose from. Visit a Samuel Smith’s pub for a great selection of organic beers (the Cittie of Yorke in Chancery Lane is one of my favourites), or sip the best cocktails ever at no-frills Freud – my current obsession!

CULTURE AND RELAXATION: 3 DAYS IN PRAGUE

September 8, 2014November 8, 2014 / The practical explorer / Leave a comment

We normally travel on the cheap, but this trip to Prague was filled with luxury! We travelled with BA, stayed at the awesome Icon (see below for a proper review), had massages at their spa and used a private shuttle service to get to and from the airport – it just doesn’t get better than this.

CITY CENTRE:

We started our first day with a walk through the Old Town, where many of the main highlights are, such as the astronomic clock and scenic Charles Bridge.

The astronomic clock comes to life every hour, but to be honest this was not particularly worth the tourist fanfare when it goes off. More interesting are the buskers around the main square – extremely professional bands and musicians that really make the place come to life.

Everybody says Prague is beautiful, but I was really taken by how beautiful is really was, especially on a nice summer day.

We stopped to enter the many churches along the way. All of them seemed to offer daily concerts for a fee. Many of them also have towers that you can climb for nice views of the city (we did neither).

The city centre is divided between the Old Town (Stare Mesto) and the New Town (Nove Mesto). Despite the names, both are centuries old and really nice.

Another nice neighbourhood is the Jewish Quarter (Jevonov), an area with lots of ample boulevards.

Prague is also great for culture, and we were happy to discover a Tim Burton exhibition in the Stone at the House Bell gallery next to the main square. This was great, but there are lots of exhibitions around town. It is also a great place to see art nouveau architecture (even more ubiquitous than in Brussels) and Alphonse Mucha artworks.

THE CASTLE:

Prague Castle is one of the main attractions of the city. We took tram n. 23 (tickets cost 24kr and need to be bought in advance) which stops right behind the main entrance.

Walking around the castle grounds is free, but you need a ticket to get into the main buildings. We got Circuit B tickets at about £8 each, which includes most of the main sights.

The main highlight is St Vitus Cathedral, which is right up there in terms of impressive cathedrals. There’s even a stained-glass window by Mucha (third on the left, from the entrance).

Golden Lane is also nice – a quaint little street filled with replicas of ancient homes and souvenir shops.

The visit to the castle is best done on a sunny day, when you get amazing views of the city and the river.

UNDERGROUND TOUR:

We started our last day in Prague with a guided tour. We chose the Underground Tour at 400kr (£11.60) and taking about an hour. Our guide Ivka took us to three venues around the city centre. Prague has loads of underground buildings, so this was a good opportunity to see something different.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Prague is famous for its beer, so it’s a great opportunity to try different brands, and at less than £2 for a pint you might as well give it a go.

As we were looking for a sports bar, we headed to Rocky O’Reillys. This is a nice Irish pub close to Wenceslas Square.

And although Czech food is not traditionally veggie-friendly, we did some research in advance (through Happy Cow) and were pleased to discover that there are many veggie places around. Our favourite was LoVeg (we went there twice), a vegan restaurant in the Lesser Quarter. The food was great, and they had nice versions of traditional Czech fare, like the goulash, which paired nicely with an organic beer. The cheesecake that followed was also great. Lunch for two, including a few beers and tip cost around £22. Service was super friendly – on our second time there, we were quickly ushered to the terrace for an al fresco meal with nice views of the castle.

Another great place was RawCha, a tea house that also serves raw food. The place is laid-back and service is friendly. Food was delicious, especially the Japanese ravioli. A meal for two cost £14 including tip.

We also had a quick meal at Estrella, another nice veggie restaurant that catered for the local crowd.

We didn’t eat at Country Life, but this vegan buffet at the heart of the Old Town looked really nice. We did buy some nice supplies to the next door food store.

ICON BOUTIQUE HOTEL:

Accommodation in Prague is not particularly cheap, so I booked this place a few months in advance because they had a deal at the time. Best decision ever.

This place serves breakfast from 7 in the morning to 11 at night. Why is no one else doing this? Such a great idea! Plus we could have breakfast delivered to our room free of charge because we booked our stay directly through their website.

We also had 30% off the minibar (I don’t even know why).

We got 20% off massages in their spa as we were staying at the hotel. We had energetic Thai massages (an hour for about £25 per person), but they had lots of options to choose from.

Finally, we were upgraded from our standard room to the super nice Junior suite, which was massive (we had our own sitting room), just because it was available. Awesome! This never happens to me. This room had a Hastens bed – of course I have no idea what that means, but the bed was perfect.

Staff was amazing through and through; this stay really defined our whole trip. When we were ready to leave at 5am to catch an early flight, they gave us a packed lunch for the journey home… too nice!

HOW TO DO IT:

Go: Many companies fly to Prague, but in the summer it’s advisable to book in advance. We used airmiles and flew BA from Heathrow. Flights take about 2h. Our flights arrived very late and left very early, so we booked a shuttle service to and from the airport. It cost about £18 for two, and we got a free travel guide.
Stay: I can’t recommend the Icon enough – I’m already looking forward to staying there again next time I’m in Prague, and to having another amazing massage. But there are lots of options through Hostelworld and Tripadvisor. Book in advance for summer months and choose somewhere near Wenceslas Square to be at walking distance from the main sights.
Tours: There are loads of tours on offer, paid and free. We did our tour with Prague Tours, but there are many options to choose from.
Shop: Manufaktura is a very nice cosmetics shop with great options for presents. There are many locations around town.
Do: We did lots on this trip, but there’s definitely more to do. On a sunny day, take a funicular up Petrin Hill for beautiful views of the city. Or take some time to watch a concert in a church.

A WEEKEND IN AMSTERDAM: ITINERARY FOR SOLO TRAVELLERS

August 17, 2014November 8, 2014 / The practical explorer / 1 Comment

I don’t normally travel by myself these days, but last weekend I took a plane to Amsterdam for a long weekend. I enjoy travelling solo, but for those who are not used to it, my tip is to keep busy – having a planned itinerary works well for me.

DAY 1

RIJKSMUSEUM

My main objective with this trip was to visit the Rijksmuseum, which reopened last year following a decade-long renovation. I got there early to avoid the crowds.

The museum has a range of exhibits from different periods, but most of the highlights are found in the Gallery of Honour in the second floor. This is where you will find Rembrandt’s Night Watch and Vermeer’s Milkmaid – and it’s also the busiest place in the museum.

The renovated building is the perfect mix of old and new and the displays are beautifully curated.

When I visited, Alain de Botton’s project Art as Therapy was on display alongside some of the artworks, prompting visitors to reflect on specific themes of modern life, such as work, self and anxiety.

ALBERT CUYPMARKT / DE PIJP

I had heard good things about Dutch market, so I decided to check out one of them. Albert Cuypmarkt is very big and has a wide variety of stalls. It is a good place to get something to eat (I had the fries – yum!).

The market is in De Pijp, a nice neighbourhood with lots of bars and cafes.

VONDELPARK

This is a very nice park, located within walking distance from the main museums. Although it’s busy, it’s a world apart from the crowded old city centre.

Here you can see the locals going for a run or walking their dogs, but Amsterdam being Amsterdam, it’s also a nice place for a bike ride.

BOAT TOUR

‘Amsterdam has more canals than Venice’, the guide announces, so there are lots of options to see the city from the water. Prices vary greatly – there are even free ferries departing from the Central Station.

I chose the 1h canal tour with Lovers tours at 15€, which was not too expensive.

The tour goes through the most famous canals and sights and it was good, but not great.

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

Alongside Anne Frank’s house, this is probably the most popular attraction in Amsterdam. Queuing for at least one hour is the norm, so booking in advance is strongly recommended.

This museum has many paintings by Van Gogh and these are displayed in the context of his life.

But this place is simply just too crowded, and fails to allow for the level of contemplation needed to actually take it all in.

DAY 2

FREE WALKING TOUR

This was a great start to my second day in Amsterdam. Sandeman’s Free Walking Tour through the city centre leaves Dam Square every day at 11.15 and 14.15, and it’s very popular. They offer similar tours in other European cities and they’re supposed to be very good as well.

You are expected to pay what you think is fair at the end (I gave 10€, which seemed to be adequate) and it was well worth it.
The tour goes around the city centre and provides a lot of context to the sights.

It lasts 3 hours with a 30min coffee break, which initially I thought might be too long, but it was a good amount given how much you see.

It was also a good way of seeing the Red Light District without being worried about being a woman on my own.

JORDAAN / CANALS

Jordaan was my favourite area of Amsterdam. This is a laid-back neighbourhood with many nice little shops.

It is a nice place to wander around and have a break. It’s also one of the best areas to see the traditional Dutch architecture of the 17th century.

This is also next to the Canal Belt of Amsterdam full of houseboats and cafes.

HAARLEM

Because of how small Holland is, it’s really easy to travel around. I decided to go to Haarlem, a small town reached by a 15 minute train ride.

Haarlem is very nice. The city centre is full of character and it was bustling with life on the sunny Saturday afternoon that I spent there.

After visiting St Bavo’s church (the famous organ was played by a young Mozart), stop for Italian gelato or a beer in one of the many bars and cafes nearby.

Trains leave from Amsterdam Centraal every 10-15 minutes and return tickets cost around 9€.

ANNE FRANK HOUSE

Our little room looked very bare at first with nothing on the walls; but thanks to Daddy who had brought my film-star collection and picture postcards on beforehand, and with the aid of a paste pot and brush, I have transformed the walls into one gigantic picture. This makes it look much more cheerful…
(The Diary of Anne Frank, July 11, 1942)

Anne Frank House is open to the public thanks to the work of her father Otto.

Queues here take at least 2 hours during the summer, but after 8pm on Fridays and Saturdays the wait is shorter.

Thankfully, inside the place is quiet and the atmosphere respectful. The display is built around Anne’s quotes and you are taken through each of the Secret Annex’s rooms.

I always find this kind of exhibition difficult to visit in a tourist setting, but it is definitely worth a go.

JULIA’S CUCINA ITALIANA

When I first arrived at the Central Station from the airport one of the first places I spotted was Julia’s Cucina Italiana – and of course I knew I had to stop there.

Not only has this place got my name, but also it’s exactly my kind of place!

You choose a type of pasta and a type of sauce and they quickly prepare it in front of you. The food is served in takeaway boxes so you can have some hot pasta on your journey home. A small portion costs from 5.50€.

I went there twice and also brought back some branded napkins!

DAY 3

BAR BUKOWSKI

Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.
(Charles Bukowski)

I heard about Bar Bukowski before going to Amsterdam and thought it’d be a good stop for breakfast on my way to the airport.

This place is right next to Oosterpark, but completely off the tourist paths (they don’t even have a menu in English, but staff is happy to help you).

I had the Amsterdam Blend tea and a cheese croissant – both delicious! The pancakes they were eating at the table next to mine also looked great. A very nice place to visit to scape the crowded city centre.

HOW TO DO IT:

Go: Amsterdam is very popular so there are lots of options of flights. Eurostar is a good alternative – book 3 months in advance for the best prices. The train trip from London St Pancras takes only 4h40.
Stay: Accommodation is not cheap in Amsterdam, so book in advance. Travelling solo invariably means paying a premium for accommodation, so I ended up staying at Mercure Hotel Amsterdam City, which was not very close to the city centre but only a short metro ride away. In the city centre there are lots of options for hostels, but in Amsterdam these are definitely best for those who want to party hard.
When to go: There is lots to do outside, so go when it’s hot to enjoy the canals and cafe terraces. May is the time to go to visit the tulip fields.
Museums: The main museums can get very busy, so book online to avoid the massive queues. In the summer some of the larger museums stay open late on Fridays and Saturdays and they tend to be less busy after 8pm.
Transportation: Amsterdam is very well served by trains and metro, and because it’s so flat it’s easy to walk to most places. You can buy an OV-chipkaart (similar to an Oyster card) and top up as you go.
Travelling alone: I always enjoy travelling by myself and find it really easy. It’s a great way to enjoy a place and do just what you want. I like planning a simple itinerary in advance and keeping busy. And it’s always easy to meet people in pub crawls or hostels.

HANGING OUT WITH USAIN BOLT: A WEEKEND AT THE COMMONWEALTH GAMES

August 5, 2014November 8, 2014 / The practical explorer / Leave a comment

We got tickets to see the final of the athletics at the Commonwealth Games, so we hopped on a plane to Glasgow.

I’ve been to Edinburgh many times, but this was my first time in Glasgow.

We have friends living nearby, so we met for lunch at Mono, a nice restaurant and music venue that serves delicious vegetarian food. We then spent the rest of the afternoon around some of the many bars in the city centre.

THE COMMONWEALTH GAMES

Scottish summer weather meant the athletics session we saw was very wet. The women in the pole vault struggled to get any results, as did the men in the triple jump. But the atmosphere was great and we had lots of fun.

But the definite highlight was the men’s 4X100 relay. Not only did we get to see Usain Bolt competing, but he was right in front of us! We were immensely lucky with the tickets.

Bolt is extremely powerful, and I was really impressed at how he controlled the crowd. And he also seemed to have fun in the process, even dancing to Scottish classic ‘500 miles‘. The Jamaican team won as expected, and this was a climatic finish to a nice day.

HOW TO DO IT:

Tickets: I’ve said this elsewhere, but the key to going to any major sporting event is planning in advance. We applied for a whole bunch of tickets and were lucky to get these.
Stay: Glasgow doesn’t actually have that many options, and because this was a busy time we ended up staying at a rented room we found through Airbnb. Aimee‘s flat was ideal for us – a spacious flat close to the stadium and with good links to the city centre.
Go: The main airlines fly to Glasgow, but for more options consider flying to (and staying at) Edinburgh, which is quite close and offers more choice.