RELAXING IN VIENNA: Pretty cakes and baroque architecture

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I was looking forward to this trip. For Easter in 2014 we went to Prague and had the best time, and I thought Vienna would be a nice follow up.

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I wasn’t really sure what to see, so I decided to do a free self-guided walking tour, which was great. Instead of doing it all in one go, we did it over two days, leaving lots of time for each place we visited.

DAY 1: City Centre

The tour starts at the Opera House, a great place to grasp the grandiose architecture which is so characteristic of Vienna. We didn’t do this, but there are lots of performances available there.

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Nearby is the lovely Burggarten (or Castle Park), great for a visit on a sunny day. We then reached the Albertina Museum, which seems to have a great collection (we ended up not going in).

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It was the perfect time for a little break, so we had the famous chocolate cake at Sacher Hotel. Yum!

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We then reached the Capuchin Imperial Crypt, where many members of the Hapsburg family are buried. It was a very interesting display.

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Walking around Karntner Strasse (the main pedestrian thoroughfare) we finally stopped at St Stephen’s Church, a very impressive gothic cathedral right in the centre of Vienna.

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Our final stop of the day was at Mozart’s Apartment which unfortunately was pretty boring!

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DAY 2: Around the Imperial Palace

Another great area to visit starts at Michaelerplatz, an impressive square which has preserved Roman ruins at its centre. This is where the famous Spanish Winter Riding School is located (I’m not massively into horses so I don’t really get the appeal, but it’s a nice building).

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Right behind it is the National Library, the Hofburg Imperial Palace and Hero’s Square. All this area is incredibly impressive, full of beautiful buildings and gardens. Everything is quite grandiose, so you can spend a lot of time contemplating and taking photos.

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SCHONBRUNN PALACE

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Another iconic Viennese highlight is Schonbrunn Palace, which is a Unesco Heritage site. This is an impressive baroque building, and the gardens outside are also very nice. The queues were incredibly long, so we decided to walk around the park and enjoy the sunshine instead!

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HOW TO DO IT:

Stay: We got this amazing flat though AirBnb which was just perfect. The place was very nice and ideally located right at the city centre.

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Eat: Food wasn’t particularly veggie-friendly, so it was a good idea to stay in a flat where we could cook. We found a couple of nice places through Happy Cow. Landia was good to taste local dishes, and Xu’s Cooking might not have been particularly local, but it had amazing veggie Chinese food and the service was perfect! There are also lots of cafes around, all with amazing cakes. We didn’t get in, but Demel had the prettiest selection of treats!

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Drink: Local beers are great and there are lots of nice bars around. It being spring, spritzers seemed to be the drink of choice in many places – perfect!

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Transportation: In the city centre, most things are within walking distance. There’s also a good metro network, and it’s often cheaper getting a day ticket instead of singles.

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A perfect break for early spring!

A SUNNY DAY IN SLOVAKIA: Day trip to Bratislava

Although I’m slowly working through the list of European countries I want to visit, I’m in no rush to cross places of my list – in general I like to see as much of a place as I can.

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But Slovakia being so easy to reach from Vienna, we decided to get on a train to Bratislava and see what it was like.

The main thing to do there is walking around the Old Town. This part of the town is very nice, full of little narrow streets and old historical buildings.

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It was a beautiful day, perfect for having a beer in a cafe and taking photos in the main square.

We then went up to the castle which overlooks the city centre. You also get views of the Danube river which goes through the city.

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After exploring for a while, we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. Food wasn’t particularly veggie-friendly but it was nice nonetheless.

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HOW TO DO IT:

Taking the train from Vienna is the easiest way to visit Bratislava. The trip takes only 1h and return tickets cost 16€.

The station in Bratislava doesn’t provide much in way of information – to get to the city centre you need to walk under the subway to find a bus stop behind the station. From there, bus 93 will get you to the city centre in under 10 minutes (many thanks to the helpful local who showed us the way).

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This is a great option for a day trip as the city is quite small and you can see a lot in a day.

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THE 5-MINUTE TRIP PLANNER: Vilnius, Lithuania

I’m going to Vilnius in June. We were looking for a weekend trip, checked the map, and decided on Lithuania.

I don’t know much about the place, but it’s always good to go somewhere different!

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Photo by Mantas Volungevicius

HOW TO DO IT:

  • GoWizzair has a convenient flight from London to Vilnius, with return flights from only £80 per person.
  • Stay: We chose our accommodation through TripAdvisor. Hotels are quite cheap at around £60 per night for a double room.
  • Do: Wander around the Old Town, which is a Unesco Heritage site. It just looks so pretty!

The 5-minute trip planner: Planning a short trip in no time.

I WANT TO LIVE THERE: What I say every time I travel

My dream was always to live abroad. Many years of hard work and a Master’s degree later, I succeeded! I left my home country and never looked back.

Funnily enough, moving countries actually put me off doing it again, so I have no plans of relocating. But I can’t help myself – every time I visit a new place, I immediately start imagining how great it would be to move there!

Here are three places where (I daydream) I could live:

 1. Marrakech, Morocco

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Growing up I wanted to live in Paris. The French capital was the first place I visited in Europe and it completely changed my world view.

Then a few years ago I went to Marrakech and got that same feeling all over again: now I’m absolutely obsessed with the place (I’ve been four times), the souks, the food, the amazing energy.

How I wish I had a whole riad to decorate!

2. Berlin, Germany

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It took me a long time to go to Berlin, and I so shouldn’t have waited!

The city is absolutely great – there’s so much to see and do. There are lots of different neighbourhoods where you can spend days finding new interesting places. And there’s so much to learn about the country’s history, with remnants of the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie serving as reminders of how much the place has changed.

Get a flat in Prenzlauer Berg for the best Sunday brunches ever.

3. Belgrade, Serbia

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I visited Belgrade at the end of my Old Yugoslavia tour. The city is very understated, so it’s not as if there’s tons of things to do.

But then we hit the bars, and it was THE BEST. There are so many places around, from cocktail bars to French bistros, and the prices are amazing!

A great place to buy a little flat and hang out a few weeks per year.


Where you would move to if you could?

A WEEK IN RUSSIA: Domed roofs and wildfires

Russia was the first place I visited in Eastern Europe. In hindsight, I had no idea what I was getting myself into!

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When we arrived in Moscow, the whole city was covered in smog due to wildfires. Everyone was wearing masks to protect their noses and mouths, and it was unbearably hot.

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We spent a few days in the capital, trying to make the best of it. We visited the main highlights…

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…such as the Red Square, the Kremlin, and St Basil’s Cathedral (which is amazing!).

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Everything was different from what I expected!

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The architecture was especially unusual.

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We then took a fast train to St Petersburg, where the weather was much better – sunny days which weren’t too hot (and no smog!).

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Again we stumbled upon domed roofs on every corner!

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St Petersburg is sometimes called ‘Venice of the North’ because of the many canals around the city. And although both places are beautiful, I think they’re both quite different.

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The city is also the home of the Hermitage Museum, one of the great museums of the world, with highlights that include two Da Vinci paintings.

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You can spend a whole day there.

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St Petersburg was definitely my favourite of the two cities we visited, but I should definitely go back to Moscow when the weather is better and reassess!

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2014 TRAVELLING: The year in review

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This was another year full of travelling! Here’s how it went:

  • Our first trip was not until March, when we went to Berlin with friends. It was my third time there, but I still want to go back!
  • We then embarked on our Eastern European adventure: we started off in Croatia, went to Montenegro for a day trip, took the bus to Mostar and Sarajevo in Bosnia and ended up bar-hopping in Serbia.
  • In May I hopped on the train at King’s Cross and went to visit my friend in Edinburgh.
  • Then we crossed the Atlantic and spent two weeks in Brazil: we flew into Manaus, swam with river dolphins, stayed in a jungle hotel and finished it off watching the World Cup live!
  • We saw the athletics at the Commonwealth Games: the best bit was Usain Bolt being right in front of us!
  • I finally went to Amsterdam and enjoyed all the highlights of the Rijksmuseum.
  • We had an amazing time in Prague: beautiful, relaxing and scenic.
  • I chased rainbows with my friends around Geneva.
  • We drank Belgian beers and took a boat trip in Bruges.
  • In September we had an amazing adventure through Jordan: we drove through the King’s Highway, explored Petra, slept in the desert, floated in the Dead Sea, and saw mosaics in Madaba. This is definitely one to remember!
  • I went back to Marrakech and got lost in the souks again. It’s amazing every single time.
  • In November I went to Bangladesh for work – I never thought I’d go there!

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Twelve trips and thirteen countries – not bad!

WISHLIST: Train journey through Transylvania

Photo from Wikipedia

I’m already dreaming of all the places I’ll visit next year. The list is already longer than my holidays allow, but there are just so many places to go!

One place I really want to visit is Transylvania: Dracula’s castle, medieval villages, beautiful countryside… and all of that by train – sounds perfect!

Fly to Romanian capital Bucharest then make your way to places like Brasov, Sibiu and Sighisoara, stopping along the way. There are lost of Unesco Heritage sites in the region as well.

Image from Wikipedia

Instead of going back to Bucharest, head to Hungary to end your trip with a relaxing break in one of the thermal baths of Budapest.

I can’t wait!

CULTURE AND RELAXATION: 3 DAYS IN PRAGUE

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We normally travel on the cheap, but this trip to Prague was filled with luxury! We travelled with BA, stayed at the awesome Icon (see below for a proper review), had massages at their spa and used a private shuttle service to get to and from the airport – it just doesn’t get better than this.

CITY CENTRE:

We started our first day with a walk through the Old Town, where many of the main highlights are, such as the astronomic clock and scenic Charles Bridge.

The astronomic clock comes to life every hour, but to be honest this was not particularly worth the tourist fanfare when it goes off. More interesting are the buskers around the main square – extremely professional bands and musicians that really make the place come to life.

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Everybody says Prague is beautiful, but I was really taken by how beautiful is really was, especially on a nice summer day.

We stopped to enter the many churches along the way. All of them seemed to offer daily concerts for a fee. Many of them also have towers that you can climb for nice views of the city (we did neither).

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The city centre is divided between the Old Town (Stare Mesto) and the New Town (Nove Mesto). Despite the names, both are centuries old and really nice.

Another nice neighbourhood is the Jewish Quarter (Jevonov), an area with lots of ample boulevards.

Prague is also great for culture, and we were happy to discover a Tim Burton exhibition in the Stone at the House Bell gallery next to the main square. This was great, but there are lots of exhibitions around town. It is also a great place to see art nouveau architecture (even more ubiquitous than in Brussels) and Alphonse Mucha artworks.

THE CASTLE:

prague09_for webPrague Castle is one of the main attractions of the city. We took tram n. 23 (tickets cost 24kr and need to be bought in advance) which stops right behind the main entrance.

Walking around the castle grounds is free, but you need a ticket to get into the main buildings. We got Circuit B tickets at about £8 each, which includes most of the main sights.

The main highlight is St Vitus Cathedral, which is right up there in terms of impressive cathedrals. There’s even a stained-glass window by Mucha (third on the left, from the entrance).

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Golden Lane is also nice – a quaint little street filled with replicas of ancient homes and souvenir shops.

The visit to the castle is best done on a sunny day, when you get amazing views of the city and the river.

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UNDERGROUND TOUR:

We started our last day in Prague with a guided tour. We chose the Underground Tour at 400kr (£11.60) and taking about an hour. Our guide Ivka took us to three venues around the city centre. Prague has loads of underground buildings, so this was a good opportunity to see something different.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Prague is famous for its beer, so it’s a great opportunity to try different brands, and at less than £2 for a pint you might as well give it a go.

As we were looking for a sports bar, we headed to Rocky O’Reillys. This is a nice Irish pub close to Wenceslas Square.

And although Czech food is not traditionally veggie-friendly, we did some research in advance (through Happy Cow) and were pleased to discover that there are many veggie places around. Our favourite was LoVeg (we went there twice), a vegan restaurant in the Lesser Quarter. The food was great, and they had nice versions of traditional Czech fare, like the goulash, which paired nicely with an organic beer. The cheesecake that followed was also great. Lunch for two, including a few beers and tip cost around £22. Service was super friendly – on our second time there, we were quickly ushered to the terrace for an al fresco meal with nice views of the castle.

Another great place was RawCha, a tea house that also serves raw food. The place is laid-back and service is friendly. Food was delicious, especially the Japanese ravioli. A meal for two cost £14 including tip.

We also had a quick meal at Estrella, another nice veggie restaurant that catered for the local crowd.

We didn’t eat at Country Life, but this vegan buffet at the heart of the Old Town looked really nice. We did buy some nice supplies to the next door food store.

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Accommodation in Prague is not particularly cheap, so I booked this place a few months in advance because they had a deal at the time. Best decision ever.

This place serves breakfast from 7 in the morning to 11 at night. Why is no one else doing this? Such a great idea! Plus we could have breakfast delivered to our room free of charge because we booked our stay directly through their website.

We also had 30% off the minibar (I don’t even know why).

We got 20% off massages in their spa as we were staying at the hotel. We had energetic Thai massages (an hour for about £25 per person), but they had lots of options to choose from.

Finally, we were upgraded from our standard room to the super nice Junior suite, which was massive (we had our own sitting room), just because it was available. Awesome! This never happens to me. This room had a Hastens bed – of course I have no idea what that means, but the bed was perfect.

Staff was amazing through and through; this stay really defined our whole trip. When we were ready to leave at 5am to catch an early flight, they gave us a packed lunch for the journey home… too nice!

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 HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: Many companies fly to Prague, but in the summer it’s advisable to book in advance. We used airmiles and flew BA from Heathrow. Flights take about 2h. Our flights arrived very late and left very early, so we booked a shuttle service to and from the airport. It cost about £18 for two, and we got a free travel guide.
  • Stay: I can’t recommend the Icon enough – I’m already looking forward to staying there again next time I’m in Prague, and to having another amazing massage. But there are lots of options through Hostelworld and Tripadvisor. Book in advance for summer months and choose somewhere near Wenceslas Square to be at walking distance from the main sights.
  • Tours: There are loads of tours on offer, paid and free. We did our tour with Prague Tours, but there are many options to choose from.
  • Shop: Manufaktura is a very nice cosmetics shop with great options for presents. There are many locations around town.
  • Do: We did lots on this trip, but there’s definitely more to do. On a sunny day, take a funicular up Petrin Hill for beautiful views of the city. Or take some time to watch a concert in a church.

A WEEK IN THE OLD YUGOSLAVIA: BELGRADE, SERBIA

We got on a 6am bus from Sarajevo’s main station. Buses depart daily and tickets cost around 50KM (£20) per person, but there are organised tours or you can take the plane. We had no hope that the journey would take 7h10 as we were told, but this time we were surprisingly on time!

The bus goes through the snowy hills of Bosnia and onto the Serbian countryside. The border crossing came and went without much hassle.

We arrived in Belgrade in the early afternoon. This was our final destination. Again the station looked a bit rough and the street names in Cyrillic made for a difficult start, but we found our way around.

THE CITY CENTRE:

belgrade2_for webThe area between Cara Dušana-Frankuska and the pedestrianised Knez Mihailova is the central area of the city. There are many bars and cafes (plus countless bakeries and pizzerias) around this area.

The pedestrianised road leads to the local fortress. On a nice day (and this was one of them), the views of the city from the fortress can be quite nice. This is also where the Danube crosses the city.

This was the last stop in a long journey, and after much sightseeing I was finding Belgrade a bit gritty and unappealing. But then we hit the bars.

  • We stumbled upon Pastis Bistro, a lovely French place which was quite popular. On the menu cocktails, coffee, great local wine and popcorn (from an old-fashioned popcorn machine).
  • Next we stopped at Cafe La Libertad, where Che Guevara is the hero of choice. This place was low-key and friendly.
  • We ended our first night in the city at Big Pizza, a fast-food pizzeria where we got a massive pizza for £4.
  • On our last day of this journey we continued to visit the local bars. We stopped for coffee and beer at the Eleven Bar & Cafe .
  • Then we moved onto Skadarska street which is lined with nice restaurants on both sides. This little street is very different from the rest of Belgrade, with a much more Western Europe feel. It is known as the Montmartre of Belgrade.
  • We stopped at the Travelling Actor for a drink in the sun and tried the local spirit – quince brandy. Service in Belgrade is friendly and food and drinks are extremely cheap. English is spoken in most places, although not as widely as in more touristic cities.
  • We then reached Dali Bar, which was (obviously) a Salvador Dali-inspired cocktail bar with many options of drinks on the menu. A cocktail costs about £3.
  • Moving on we ventured onto Walter Sarajevski Cevap, a nice eatery where we had beer and chips (their speciality is the cevap, the local alternative to a burger).
  • We then stopped at Jimmy Woo, a trendy cocktail bar where the waiter helpfully warned us that all beers were small (we were clearly not the first people to come from England to stop there). I tried Lav, a Serbian beer.
  • And then everything changed. We find this little hideaway in Višnjićeva street, which instantly became our favourite place. Unhelpfully, this is a hole in the wall without a sign, but it’s only a few doors up from Soho bar.
  • We went for dinner at Osteria Gallo Nero, an authentic Italian place recommended to us at the hostel. Food was delicious and the service friendly. We ended the night back at our favourite place for a few more beers.

Belgrade doesn’t have much to offer in terms of landmarks, but the cafes and bars are great and we had a great time.

 HOW TO DO IT:

  • Getting there: Belgrade is normally at the start or at the end of the journey for people visiting the former Yugoslavia. We travelled with Jet Airways, which provided a good service.
  • Stay: We stayed at Indigo Hostel, where hosts Ana and Voja were extremely helpful. The place was nice and the room spacious. It’s located at the top of Skavarska street, very close to the restaurants and bars.
  • Money: Belgrade is very cheap. You can eat well at a restaurant for £7, and a beer costs less than £2.
  • Food: Eating in Eastern Europe is not easy for vegetarians, but if you stick to what you know it’s not that bad. The best option in to research some veggie dishes in advance and to stick to these. Pizza is ubiquitous, and many places offer a vegetarian pizza option.

THE END:

This was the end of our Eastern European adventure. We started off in Croatia, spent a day in Montenegro, then travelled through Bosnia stopping in Mostar and Sarajevo and finally ending up in Belgrade. We learned a lot from the history of the places we visited and loved the cheap prices – I recommend it!

A WEEK IN THE OLD YUGOSLAVIA: SARAJEVO, BOSNIA

We got on a bus from Mostar at 11 in the morning. The bus service to Sarajevo is frequent and tickets cost about £8.

The trip was supposed to take two hours but again it took longer than expected, nearly three hours. But this is forgiven because the views are amazing, passing through sunny valleys and snowy mountains.

The bus station in Sarajevo looked a bit rough, but most people were helpful and spoke a little English, so we managed to find our way around alright anyway.

Tram n.1 departs from the railway station (next to the bus station), and gets to the city centre in about 10 minutes.

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Although we had been enjoying the sun at the beginning of our trip, we were greeted by snow and rain in Sarajevo. I’m not sure what I expected from Sarajevo, but somehow the bad weather seemed to fit with the place, despite making it a bit offputting for tourism.

Similarly to Mostar, in Sarajevo the war still seems very recent. Many landmarks (such as the yellow Holiday Inn where journalists reported the war) have something to do with war. But this is also the place of the assassination of Franz Ferdinand, which triggered the start of WWI.

The Old Town (Stari Grad) is very nice and picturesque, with nice bars and cafes around. At its heart is the Baščaršija, the old market with stalls selling souvenirs and all sorts of things.

The bad weather definitely had an impact on how much we were able to see, so we preferred to stay close to the hostel. We went for Cheers Bar for drinks, and then were were on the road again.

HOW TO DO IT:

  • Getting there: Sarajevo is often visited by tourists on their way to and from other places in the region, but there are some options for flying in as well.
  • Travelling by bus: We travelled by bus a lot on this trip. We had no problem buying tickets one or two days in advance, as it’s not possible to book anything online. The routes we travelled were all common, but sometimes we only had one option of departure time (often a very early start). Buses depart on time but somehow always end up taking longer en route, possibly because of the local landscape – which is beautiful, but doesn’t make for fast journeys.
  • Stay: Thee are many options from Hostelworld – we stayed in a place which I don’t really recommend. Staying close to the Old Town is the best options, as everything is nearby.
  • Money: Euros are commonly accepted in Bosnia, especially in hotels, shops and businesses around touristy areas.
  • Read: I started reading ‘Twice Born’ by Margaret Mazzantini after we came back from the trip. The novel is set in Sarajevo during the war, and it’s a great read – definitely captures the spirit of the place.