DOLPHINS FOLLOWED OUR BOAT: Honeymoon in the Galapagos,day 6

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We were back aboard the Sea Lion for our last trip – this time we sailed to Bartholomew.

On the way there we passed the small islet Daphne, where we could see Nazca boobies nesting. The boat continued its journey and we were soon joined by dolphins that swam right next to us and jumped out of the water – amazing!

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After a couple of hours we reached Bartholomew, a young volcanic island that looks very impressive, with jagged rocks contrasting with the deep blue sea and sandy beaches. We were greeted by sea lions on landing as per usual.

We followed the steps up to the highest point of the island, where we had the most breath-taking views.

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We then went snorkelling around the Pinnacle, an impressive rock formation which is also an ideal home for lots of fish. We spotted starfish, a colourful parrot fish and – as usual – a reef shark! This was a unique site for snorkelling, a fitting place four our last island trip. And so it was back on the boat and to the hotel.

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Our Galapagos adventures are here: Day 1; day 2; day 3; day 4; day 5.

ALONE WITH A SEA TURTLE: Honeymoon in the Galapagos, day 5

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We got back aboard the Sea Lion and headed to South Plaza for a hike. We were greeted by playful sea lion pups swimming by the pier.

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We walked across this small island stopping to look at sea lion and iguanas along the way.

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We stopped near the cliffs on one side of the island where we could see lots of birds: Nazca boobies, shearwaters with chicks, pelicans and frigatebirds which were manoeuvring impressively trying to get some food off the cliff.

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This is a small but very pretty island, and the day was just beautiful! We went back to the boat to find a good place for snorkelling in Punta Carrion. We were a small group this time, which was good because we could do lots of exploring by ourselves.

We saw loads of colourful fish, some in large schools, spotted a shark, and were greeted by a sea turtle swimming nearby – amazing! Then it was back on the boat and to the hotel.

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More on our Galapagos adventure is here: Day 1; day 2; day 3; day 4.

WATCHING MARINE IGUANAS SWIM BY: Honeymoon in the Galapagos, day 4

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Our fourth day in the Galapagos started with a trip to Divine Bay in Santa Cruz. We hiked across lava terrain to find a colony of marine iguanas. There were loads of them nesting, and we also saw a few of them swimming which looks quite awkward.

In the distance we spotted sea turtles – Galapagos is hard work like that.

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We then went snorkelling in an area that was full of whitetip reef sharks – nearby we also found a sea turtle that was happy to swim near us!

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After having lunch back at the hotel with finches coming to watch us, we went to Puerto Ayora to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station. There was saw lots of tortoises which are part of conservation projects, and a land iguana from another island. There’s also a small museum where you can learn about conservation projects and management of invasive species.

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We went back to the port to get a water taxi to the hotel.

In the few minutes we were waiting we saw sea lions, white and blacktip reef sharks, a large school of golden rays, marine iguanas and lots of birds!

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You can see more of our Galapagos adventures here: Day 1; day 2; day 3.

SEA LIONS FIGHTING FOR POWER: Honeymoon in the Galapagos, day 3

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We got aboard the Sea Lion, the nice yacht that belongs to the Finch Bay hotel. We sailed through the choppy sea for a couple of hours until we reached Santa Fe island.

Even before we got off our dinghy we spotted the Galapagos hawk, lots of sea lions on the beach, colourful fish swimming next to the boat and lots of sharks by the shore.

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We landed on the sandy beach where many sea lions with tiny pups were playing around. We spent some time taking photos and watching as they played around.

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We continued out hike across the island, and were greeted by a hawk that was just chilling by the main path. The track continues through a terrain full of shrubs (under which you can often find a sea lion resting) then reaches another beach – again we saw many sea lions, and this time we even saw two bulls fighting each other!

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Continuing our walk we spotted a few Santa Fe iguanas – a different species of land iguana. These feed on the unusual cacti which grow all over the island.

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We changed into our snorkelling gear and swam around colourful fish. We found a spot with playful sea lions, and they came to swim around us, which was really amazing! Then it was back to the boat for lunch before we made our way back to the hotel.

As it was early, we went to Puerto Ayora, the local town. Charles Darwin Street is the main road, but there isn’t much to see. The local fish market is quite unusual, with sea lions and pelicans fighting over scraps of fish.

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Our other Galapagos adventures are here: Day 1; day 2.

WE WENT SNORKELLING WITH SHARKS: Honeymoon in the Galapagos, day 2

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On our second day we took a boat trip to islands near Santa Cruz. We started at Isla Mosquera, a tiny island full of sea lions, many of them with pups. We spent an hour leisurely exploring and taking photos – everywhere you go there are more and more animals to see, it’s so incredible!

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This island is also good for spotting marine iguanas and red crabs.

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We then went snorkelling nearby – we saw lots of colourful fish, eels, but most importantly, sharks! This was definitely not on my list of things to do, but sharks here are not dangerous to humans, so this was a great experience.

Our boat (the Narel) then took us to nearby North Seymour. As soon as you get out of the boat you are greeted by massive birds, as Nazca and blue-footed boobies and frigate birds hover on the sky.

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We went for a walk around this impressive island, where you can see tons of birds nesting everywhere (and sometimes getting into fights too). Frigate birds make unusual displays inflating the red membrane above their chest. Blue-footed boobies mostly just look cute and a bit comical.

This island is also home to many land iguanas – this is a large species with colourful males that like to hang out under cacti.

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At the end of our walk we found another spot full of sea lions with tiny babies (so cute!) – this was a perfect ending to an amazing day full of adventures!

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You can see day 1 of our Galapagos adventure here.

AN IGUANA CAME TO GREET US ON THE TARMAC: Honeymoon in the Galapagos, day 1

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We flew from Guayaquil to Baltra to start our Galapagos adventure. An iguana was already waiting for us on the tarmac, so we knew straightaway this was going to be amazing.

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We got on the ferry from the airport where we spotted blue-footed boobies and sea lions, and lots of other birds. Our first stop of the day was a sink hole of volcanic origin in the highlands of Santa Cruz island.

We stopped for lunch at Rancho El Manzanillo, a local farm that is absolutely covered with giant tortoises. They spend their days grazing and resting by a pond, before starting a three-month journey to the lower parts of the island where they lay their eggs.

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We were dropped at Puerto Ayora, the main town in Santa Cruz, where we got on a boat to our hotel.

It was around 4pm, so we spent some time by the beach where we spotted marine iguanas, a sea lion, a golden ray, colourful crabs, lots of little fish and all sorts of birds. The wildlife here is not only really abundant, but also completely at ease hanging out around people.

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DELICIOUS PASTA AND MARBLE STEPS: A lazy weekend in Pisa

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This year we hadn’t had as many holidays as we usually do, so I was looking forward to a nice little weekend away in Italy.

We arrived early afternoon, and headed straight to our flat where our host welcomed us with a delicious bottle of local wine. After stocking up at the supermarket (and buying way too much pasta to bring back home), we went out for a walk around the leaning tower. It was a beautiful afternoon, and the light was amazing!

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We had dinner at Da Antonio, a restaurant which is among the touristy area close to the tower. Despite the location and the fact that staff was not at all Italian, the food was great. Dinner for two including drinks and tip for 40€. We went for a nightcap at Mani’Omio, a cocktail bar which served aperitivi for 6€.

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The next morning we had tickets to visit the leaning tower. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the site wasn’t particularly busy, which was really good. We visited the Cathedral and then started climbing the tower, which is a strange experience as the building pushes you around as you climb the steps.

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The view from the top was beautiful, with a nice contrast between the red roofs and green mountains – the kind of thing you can take for granted in Tuscany. We took some silly photos and headed for our next stop: delicious ice cream at La Bottega del Gelato, which had the best fiordilatte gelato I’ve had in a long time (two scoops for 2€).

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In the afternoon we took the train to nearby Lucca, a walled city which is really cute. We had lunch at Nanda’s, a vegan place that served yummy (if a bit cold) food (lunch for two including a drink for 20€). We stopped at the local cathedral (tickets for 3€) which has impressive artworks, including a large panel by Tintoretto.

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We spent a couple of hours exploring the narrow roads, and finished our visit by climbing another tower, Giunigi, which is unique because it has trees planted at the top (tickets for 4€ per person). Again the views from the top were really amazing.

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We headed back to Pisa where we had a dinner reservation at Vegusto, an amazing vegan place that had a gnocchi with lemon and ginger that was just the best (dinner for two including drinks and tip for 50€).

The next morning it was time to leave – this was a nice and chilled little trip, the perfect little break from my usual routine!

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HOW TO DO IT:

  • Go: There are direct flights from Gatwick with BA, and they take about 2h. The airport is really close to the city centre, only 10 minutes by bus (a single ticket costs 1.30€).
  • Get around: Pisa is a nice base to explore Tuscany. Lucca is a 30 minute train ride away (tickets for 3.50€ each way), but there are many other nice places around: Cinque Terre is 1h30 away, and Florence 1h – all reached easily by train.
  • Stay: We stayed in this cute Airbnb which was just what we needed – well located but with a local feel, and there were tons of tips by previous guests and our host.
  • The Leaning Tower: Tickets can be booked online up to 20 days before your visit, and cost from 16€ (depending on what is included). You need to leave your bag in a cloakroom before you go up, so make sure to leave plenty of time as lines can be long.

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IN PICTURES: Village life and countryside walks in Cumbria

I don’t normally travel within the UK, but last weekend I went to visit a friend who recently moved to Cumbria.

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The area is very scenic, perfect for long walks (weather permitting).

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We visited Bolton Castle, which is really nice and has great views over the countryside.

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There are many nice villages nearby, so we spent a couple of hours window shopping and sampling Wensleydale cheese in Hawes.

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My friend runs the beautiful Brownber Hall, so we had plenty of time to relax in style, watching goldfinches flying by.

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SUNNY PICNICS AND FOOTBALL IN CAFES: A week in Paris

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We arrived for our week in Paris on 21 June, when the French celebrate the Fete de la Musique. Getting off the Eurostar and straight into the heart of the party in the Marais was a great start for our holiday!

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The Eiffel Tower

I’ve been to Paris lots of times, so I don’t spend much of my time in the top tourist attractions, but this time we decided to go up the Eiffel Tower. There was extra security because of the Euros, but otherwise it was relatively quiet.

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As ever, the views from the top are truly amazing (you can even buy a glass of champagne from the bar on the 3rd floor), so we spent a good amount of time admiring the views and taking photos (tickets to the summit for 17€, you can book online but advance tickets tend to sell out quickly).

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Arc du Triomphe and Champs Elysees

We spent an afternoon walking from the Arc du Triomphe to the Louvre via the Champs Elysees. This is a massive highlight of Paris, but it’s definitely one of the most beautiful thoroughfares in the world. So much history, sights and amazing architecture all in the same place! This is definitely where Paris is at its most grandiose, and I’m happy every time I go back there.

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Sainte Chapelle

Close to the Notre Dame but significantly less crowded, the Sainte Chapelle is a gothic church with the most amazing stained glass windows (tickets for 10€). We spend some time admiring all the little details and taking photos which don’t really do the place any justice.

We then walked to nearby Ile St Louis, a small island in the Seine full of nice cafes and shops.

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Parc de Sceaux

I went to Parc de Sceaux once 21 years ago! I have been to Paris many many times since, but I hadn’t been back to this beautiful park yet, so I thought it would be a good thing to go back and take a nice picnic.

This is a beautiful park with a castle and formal gardens, and it’s easily accessible from Paris (just take RER B to Parc de Sceaux). It was very hot when we visited, so it was a great day to lounge under trees and watch parakeets flying over.

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Tour Saint Jacques

Visiting Tour Saint Jacques was a massive highlight of this trip. You get amazing views over Paris in a very exclusive setting.

The guided visit (tickets for 10€) takes 50 minutes, half of which consist of looking over Paris in all its glory. The maximum group size is 17 people, so it’s a real privilege to be able to visit.

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Promenade Plantee

Like the High Line in New York, the Promenade Plantee is a suspended footpath which has been transformed into a park. It’s a beautiful and peaceful place, and a great way of seeing Paris in a different way, starting behind the Bastille.

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Louis Vuitton Foundation

I’ve been meaning to check out this new museum for a while, so I made sure to book tickets in advance this time around (14€) – although we probably needn’t have.

The Louis Vuitton Foundation is a modern art museum in the outskirts of Paris, right next to the Bois de Boulogne. The building by architect Frank Gehry is as much part of the display as it is part of the outside environment, and you get great views of Paris from there too.

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The Euros

We went to the Euros in Ukraine four years ago, and it was great. This time we had tickets for two games – Austria v. Iceland, and Italy v. Spain, at Stade de France. Both games were great, and as is usual in such tournaments, the crowd came from all over the world.

We also went to the Fanzone which was right next to the Eiffel Tower – an amazing view that really added to the atmosphere.

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From my experience with international tournaments (I also went to the World Cup two year ago), this was a bit different: because Paris is already such an amazing place, the football wasn’t such a central part of our trip – on the other hand, we had all of Paris to explore, which is always great.

The other consideration is that because of the terrorist attacks from November, there was a lot of security everywhere – you had to go through three security checks to get into the stadium or the Fanzone – but of course this was more than justified, and everything went really smoothly.

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HOW TO DO IT:

Go: The best way to get to Paris is by train. The Eurostar takes you to Paris in 2h30 and it’s just so convenient! You can leave after work and arrive just in time for dinner in Paris.

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When to go: Paris is always amazing, but summers are great as the days are really long and you get to enjoy lots of outdoor activities. We were really lucky this time as it wasn’t as crowded as peak season usually gets.

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Stay: We stayed in this perfect place in the Marais. It was a perfect home for one week – located right at the heart of the action in a bohemian neighbourhood, but in a nice and quiet area. Marais is a great place to stay, as you are centrally located while feeling that you’re living like a local.

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Food: We ate mostly at the flat where we stayed, but we also went to a couple nice restaurants. Le Potager du Marais is a popular vegan place which serves yummy food, including the best vegan cheese I’ve tried (lunch for two for 35€). Our favourite food place this time was Hank, a vegan burger place that had the best food (a meal deal with burger, side and beer for 13€) and it was very cheap for Paris prices.

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Drink: France is obviously great for wine, so I made the most of the 5€ bottles at the local supermarket. Drinks at bars and restaurants are not as cheap, although wine is fairly priced (about 5€ for a glass). Beer lovers end up paying more, with a pint costing 7-8€ at bars. We also ended up at a ridiculously touristy place at one point, because we were running late and wanted to watch a football match – we paid 30€ for two drinks (1l beer and a cocktail) which is exactly the kind of tourist trap that you should avoid. Lucky for us, this was a one-off.

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Transportation: Other than walking, the metro and local trains are great in Paris. Because we were staying for one week, it made sense to get a weekly pass (26€, and you need to bring a passport photo with you). Another good alternative is the carnet with 10 tickets which can be used within central Paris (14.40€).

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